Pomellato's Nudo, all you need to know about this must-have of Italian jewellery. | The Jewellery Editor

The question of what makes an icon is one that designers around the world strive to answer. Elusive and unpredictable, it is the passage of years or decades alone that grants this honour. A shining example of a time-tested design-great is Pomellato’s Nudo ring that this year celebrates its 20th anniversary. One glance at the latest arrivals and the Nudo looks as fresh as it did way back in 2001.

Nudo Chocolate maxi ring by Pomellato — Pomellato celebrates the 20th anniversary of the Nudo ring with the Chocolate collection using gemstones that evoke the sweet allure of cacao.

This witty little ring began life in a modest way, a bit of an insider joke about the state of the world in the early Noughties at the height of the vogue for ostentation and opulence. The rebellious, unfussy Nudo with its vibrantly bright square gemstone and smooth lines was a joyous parody of the ubiquitous all-white solitaire ring.

Nudo earrings by Pomellato — Nudo is made to be worn in your own individual way and thanks to the range of gemstones different looks can be created from sky bright blues to dusky browns and blacks. Nudo Collection by Pomellato

Milanese design genius, a touch of playfulness and berry-bright colours came together in the Nudo that distilled the quintessential engagement ring into a minimalist form. Born to be stacked and with an array of rainbow colours to choose from the Nudo was a tempting self-purchase, inviting women to do jewellery their own way. And there was no holding us back: today the Nudo is recognised around the world for its visual purity and inherent tactile appeal.

Nudo ring with blue topaz by Pomellato — Different shades of blue from London Blue to Sky Blue topaz enhanced with diamonds add a luxurious touch to the Nudo collection. Nudo Collection by Pomellato

The original five Nudo rings featured bright blocks of garnet, aquamarine, peridot, iolite and red tourmaline and to the delighted surprise of the team at Casa Pomellato, they instantly sold out. Named Nudo for the Italian for naked or bare, the square gemstone is free from claws and appears to float on the finger thanks to a clever system of concealed fixings in the collet of the ring. This masterpiece of abbreviation, was modernist in its inclination yet deeply rooted in the traditional craft of goldsmithing and it takes four days to make by hand each Nudo ring the house’s Milanese workshop.

Nudo rose quartz ring by Pomellato — Meaning ‘nude’ or ‘bare’ in Italian the Nudo Pink is flattering against the skin thanks to the stone doublet made of rose quartz and chalcedony. Nudo Collection by Pomellato

Since its instant success, the Nudo has been adorned with 35 different gemstones, many of them rarely seen in the world of fine jewellery. New techniques such as the Gelé frosty finish or stone doublets add to the ever expanding range of Nudo offerings that span from zesty greens to glossy pinks and every colour in between.

The original five Nudo rings featured bright blocks of garnet, aquamarine, peridot, iolite and red tourmaline and today the range has expanded to include 35 different gemstones, many of them rarely seen in the world of fine jewellery. Nudo Collection by Pomellato

As it has grown up, the Nudo includes earrings, pendants and now even a new range of bracelets and this year the addition of chocolate coloured gemstones. CEO of Pomellato Sabina Belli says: “Nudo epitomises the visionary mission of Pomellato which was born to create prêt-à-porter jewels for the emancipated woman. It was a revolutionary idea. And Nudo fully expresses the strength of this vision: quintessentially feminine, strikingly simple, Nudo is the perfect ironic answer to the solitaire ring, inclusive in the array of naked gems it uses, powerful in its essential design, Nudo is a true icon. Multifaceted, truthful, just like the Pomellato women.” Unorthodox yet always true to its original spirit, the Nudo has travelled through two decades virtually unchanged yet as powerful as the day it was born.

To celebrate the 20th anniversary of the Nudo Collection, Pomellato presents this elegantly bold new rose-gold bangle-style bracelet with obsidian and black diamonds
The Nudo Amethyst captures the quintessential appeal of this simple yet now iconic design that thanks to the special 57-facet cut and the invisible setting that makes the stone appear to float. Nudo by Pomellato
Nudo is constantly innovating and has adapted the iconic square solitaire to sit in chains using the Clessidra cut, a double-faced gemstone sandwich that adds volume and richness of colour to the jewel. Nudo Collection by Pomellato
Ever more precious, Nudo has grown to include diamonds but never forgetting the beauty of more humble minerals such as quartz. Nudo Solitaire Collection by Pomellato
Twenty years ago when the Nudo ring was born, it was a trailblazer in every sense from its pared-back design to square solitaire and use of non-traditional gemstones today celebrated in these obsidian versions. Nudo Collection by Pomellato
Ever playful and made to be enjoyed everyday, the Nudo lariat necklaces can be worn in several different ways and have a tactile appeal thanks to the smoothness of the gold links and the chunky squares of gemstones. Nudo Lariat Collection by Pomellato
The original five Nudo rings featured bright blocks of garnet, aquamarine, peridot, iolite and red tourmaline and today the range has expanded to include 35 different gemstones, many of them rarely seen in the world of fine jewellery. Nudo Collection by Pomellato
Different shades of blue from London Blue to Sky Blue topaz enhanced with diamonds add a luxurious touch to the Nudo collection. Nudo Collection by Pomellato
Pomellato was founded with the idea of making jewellery as easy to wear as prêt-à-porter so is easy to match the Nudo with other collections including the house’s iconic chains.
Nudo is made to be worn in your own individual way and thanks to the range of gemstones different looks can be created from sky bright blues to dusky browns and blacks. Nudo Collection by Pomellato
Over the past 20 years the Nudo has expanded its range of hues and added gemstone and diamond pavé to the shank meaning your stack can be ever-changing. Nudo Collection by Pomellato
Meaning ‘nude’ or ‘bare’ in Italian the Nudo Pink is flattering against the skin thanks to the stone doublet made of rose quartz and chalcedony. Nudo Collection by Pomellato