Watches and Wonders Geneva 2023 watch preview

Ahead of the Watches and Wonders exhibition opening in Geneva today, here is a taster of what will be revealed. 

Carrera Date by TAG Heuer

At the Watches & Wonders exhibition in Geneva, that opens today, 48 luxury watch brands gather inside the Palexpo convention center to unveil their new timepieces to the world. As we head to Geneva to see the watches for ourselves, here is a sneak peek of the horological creations that will give you an idea of what is to come for the year.


Alpine Eagle 41 XPS by Chopard

Alpine Eagle 41 XPS by Chopard
The gold hands and indexes of the Alpine Eagle 41 XPS by Chopard are covered by a boosted version of the phosphorescent pigment technology called LumiNova, that operates like a light battery.  Grade X1 Super-LumiNova® is 60% more luminous than traditional LumiNova and more resistant to ageing.

The Alpine Eagle collection by Chopard is described as ‘sporty-chic’. This updated ultra-thin version features an 8mm thick case that houses the Alpine Eagle 41 XPS automatic winding L.U.C 96.40-L movement that is just 3.30 mm high. The case is made of Lucent steel, an innovative steel alloy composed of 85% recycled materials and developed by this Swiss brand with a commitment to sustainable manufacturing. The ‘chronometer’ inscription on the ‘Monte Rosa Pink’ dial confirms the precision of the movement as certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute. The textured pattern of the dial inspired by the iris of an eagle is adorned with gold hands and indexes covered with Grade X1 Super-LumiNova®

Mademoiselle Privé Lion sautoir by Chanel

Mademoiselle Privé Lion sautoir by Chanel
The chain of the Mademoiselle Privé Lion sautoir secret watch by Chanel is set with black facetted onyx, gold spheres and 51 diamonds. 

​The intriguing private world of Gabrielle Chanel is captured in this long sautoir featuring an 18-carat gold button that slides open to reveal a black lacquered dial set with 32 diamonds. In this necklace, Ms Chanel’s cherished button, first celebrated in the house’s 2022 watch collection, is adorned with a sculpted gold lion’s head.  The motif is found on many of Chanel’s creations as the extremely superstitious designer was often inspired by her astrological sign Leo. 

The Reverso Secret necklace by Jaeger-LeCoultre

Reverso Secret necklace by Jaeger-LeCoultre
Over 300 hours of meticulous work by Jaeger-LeCoultre’s artisans were required to set the chain and both sides of the Reverso Secret necklace watch case which features 20 carats of diamonds or 3,018 stones.  ​

The iconic Reverso watch by Jaeger-LeCoultre, originally created for the wrists of polo players in 1931, is reinterpreted in a sophisticated long necklace with core design elementson both sides of the distinctive swivelling Art Deco case. The rectangular pink gold case of the watch is set with white diamonds and black onyx. The chain is made up of onyx beads, a fine black cord and hundreds of tiny links set with six diamonds each. 

Time-telling sautoir by Piaget

Time telling sautoir by Piaget
The long chain of the watch sautoir by Piaget took over 130 hours to make. Each link is hand-twisted out of a gold wire and assembled one by one to create the harmonious pattern. 

Two things always come to mind when Piaget is mentioned: its excellence in creating ultra-thin mechanical movements and its ability to invent time-telling jewels. This handcrafted sautoir, the proud heir of a collection of impressive gold cuff watches and sautoirs designed in 1969, is set with Zambian oval emerald cabochons mimicking the shape of the ovoid dial. The delicate twisted gold chain pays tribute to the goldsmithing and gem-setting expertise of a brand that never cease to reinvent itself  as expressed in its long-lasting motto, “Always do better than necessary”. 

Carrera date by TAG Heuer

Carrera Date by TAG Heuer
The crown of the new Carrera Date by TAG Heuer has been redesigned for better integration with the case of a watch named after the famous Carrera Panamericana Mexican road car race of the 1950s.

It’s a big birthday this year for Carrera, the ever-young,  racing-inspired sports watch launched by TAG Heuer in 1963. The new Carrera Date marks this milestone with a revamped silhouette, colourful dials, an upgraded movement and a 36mm gender fluid stainless steel case honouring the original measurement of the iconic watch launched six decades ago. The dials of the new models are in deep blue, subtle green, warm silver and vibrant pink and have a date window at 6 o’clock. All are equipped with the 56-hour power reserve automatic Calibre 7. 

Secret Perlée watch by Van Cleef & Arpels

Perlée secret watch by Van Cleef & Arpels
Van Cleef & Arpels continues to find new ways to incorporate its famous perlée technique, which requires a craftsman to patiently shape golden beads by hand before polishing each one individually and set on to the new Secret Perlée watch.

Van Cleef & Arpels presents another impressive secret watch in a necklace. The maison’s signature perlée gold bead work on the edges of the case has been part of Van Cleef & Arpels' design heritage since 1920.  The watch is set with a pavé of rubies, emeralds or sapphires or with a cabochon of creamy blue chalcedony, pale rose quartz or deep blue sodalite (as shown). The white mother of pearl dial surrounded by diamonds is revealed only when the wearer checks the time. 

Pilot Automatic by Zenith

Pilot Automatic by Zenith
The new stainless steel Pilot Automatic by Zenith comes with 2 straps, one in brown calfskin leather and another version in black rubber. 

Zenith has entirely redesigned its Pilot collection, the Swiss Manufacturer’s long-standing watch line. Zenith was founded in 1865 by Georges-Favre Jacot, a keen enthusiast ofaviation who made specialised watches and dashboard instruments to help pilots conquer the world. The latest version is a revamp of  the iconic watch with an entirely new 40mm case featuring an angular oversized crown that is easy to manipulate even while wearing flying gloves. The Pilot Automatic is powered by the El Primero 3620 high-frequency movement, which delivers a power reserve of 60 hours when fully wound. 


Support our Work with a Contribution of any Amount

We need your help to keep The Jewellery Editor’s independence so that we can continue to offer quality writing that’s open to everyone around the world.

It means we can give a full and varied picture of the big, wide world of jewellery and watches whether it is on our website or social media channels.

Every contribution is hugely appreciated and key to ensuring our future.

Terms and conditions

Shop this article

Our shopping list