Insolence, a behaviour that usually solicits finger wagging and tut-tutting, takes on a delightful new role at the heart of Chaumet’s collection of high and fine jewellery, presented during Paris Couture Week in January.
The bow, a traditional symbol of love, gets a Millennial makeover that is as much about tying as untying; a naughty wink to the dénouement about to unfold behind closed doors.
Chaumet’s Insolence updates the tradition of bow jewels that so delighted Queen Marie-Antoinette and the romantic garlands of the Belle Epoque era, both beautiful examples of the style of capturing freshly tied ribbons in precious materials. The bow was also popular with the Victorians, who were fond of jewels that expressed a sentiment, and Queen Elizabeth II is often seen wearing Queen Victoria’s bow brooches made by Garrard in 1858.
In Chaumet’s hands, the bow is now infused with a frisson of suggestion. A rose gold rope and a diamond ribbon are entwined in the loosest of knots – a graceful union that, with one little tug, could unravel a whole new chapter of intimacy.
American photographer Karen Collins was chosen by Chaumet to capture the hedonistic pleasure of Insolence in a series of photographs showing the jewels on the skin.
The pictures capture how the bows drape loosely around the body and suspend sizeable brilliant-cut diamonds for a truly insolent take on high jewellery. Voluptuous earrings provocatively graze the neck and rings languidly encircle the finger, while the necklace can be worn seductively adorning the back.
