A new generation of designers is taking fine jewellery to fashionable new heights

The nonconformist and defiantly modern jewels of Repossi, Noor Fares, Lito, Loree Rodkin and Maria Black are going to be big this spring/summer 2014.


By Amy Sessions in London

Step forward Creative Director Gaia Repossi. Taking up the helm of the family business, Repossi has become the go-to fine jewellery brand for those who like a little rock 'n' roll edge - a rare attitude in the world of fine jewellery. Determined to dispense with the conservative aspect of the jewellery world, Repossi has championed a new direction, with diamond-encrusted knuckledusters that pack the perfect tough-girl punch, yet still feel feminine.

Citing architecture as a strong source of inspiration, Repossi is not alone in her move towards something more geometric and directional. Hollywood-based Loree Rodkin is also known for her nonconformist, visionary approach to jewellery design, her medieval-inspired range proving a sound hit with the rock elite and Hollywood A-List alike.

Opting for something a little less heavy-duty, the young London-based designer Noor Fares creates sculptural jewellery inspired by talismans and good-luck charms in the belief that every piece of jewellery should mean something. Combining an array of materials, from bronze, ebony and jet to diamonds and gemstones of every shade, Fares' pieces always include hidden 'protection' in the form of a lucky motif engraved on the inside of her creations: the protective eye, which is so much a part of her Lebanese heritage. 

The latest to join the ranks of fashionable fine jewellery is Lito Karakostanoglou, who uses her Greek cultural references to create beautiful geometric shapes, adorned with white and multi-coloured diamonds. With pieces already featured on the runways of both Kenzo and Jean Paul Gaultier, Lito is most definitely one to watch.

So strong is this new wave of thinking that even designers previously working in non-fine materials have cottoned on. Maria Black's newly launched fine jewellery line builds on the success of her contemporary jewellery line, taking her signature aesthetic to the next level in gold and diamonds. Delicate yet incredibly modern, these petite pieces are designed to be stacked, layered and mismatched to create a collection you can build on season after season. With ear cuffs, knuckle rings and multi-layered metals all making an appearance next season, fine jewellery is being taken to fashionable new heights for spring/summer 2014.

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