This summer, Paris Haute Couture Week revealed just how far high jewellery can stretch. Across more than 20 presentations, both storied maisons and rising designers unveiled creations that moved beyond ornament to become objects of thought and emotion — exploring impermanence, natural form, and the shifting boundaries of craftsmanship.
1) NATURE REIMAGINED
Nature is always present in high jewellery, but this year, it was far more than a decorative motif. Several houses sought to capture not just beauty but the cycles, contrasts and quiet dramas of the natural world.
Chaumet – Wild Rose Necklace
At the heart of Jewels by Nature, Chaumet’s 2025 high jewellery collection, the Wild Rose necklace channels the spirit of a 1922 tiara from the maison’s archives. Echoing its golden stamens and botanical intricacy, the modern design centres on an 8.23-carat Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond, framed by a flourish of brilliant-cut diamonds. Nearly 1,500 hours of craftsmanship went into the articulated, transformable necklace, which can be worn three ways with a single hidden clasp. Romantic yet precise, it sets the tone for a collection rooted in nature’s enduring power.
De Beers – Baobab Magnitude
De Beers continues its exploration of natural inspiration with Essence of Nature: Chapter Two, unveiled during Paris Haute Couture Week. Among the highlights is the Baobab Magnitude set, a tribute to Botswana’s ancient baobab tree — known as the “tree of life.” The earrings combine bold black jet drops with a scattering of Fancy coloured rough and polished diamonds, arranged in organic clusters. With hand-carved jet and intricate diamond settings, they embody the vitality and generosity of the African landscape, while showcasing De Beers’ evolving craftsmanship and connection to its diamond-producing origins.
Mellerio – Jardin des Rêves
Inspired by a royal tapestry once owned by Marie-Antoinette, Mellerio’s Jardin des Rêves necklace transforms a historic motif — the pineapple — into a glittering contemporary jewel. The vibrant design channels the queen’s love of exoticism and fantasy through a painterly array of tourmalines, sapphires, tanzanites, heliodores and morganites, each carefully selected for hue and intensity. The maison’s naturalist spirit and flair for colour find full expression in this transformable piece, crowned with a diamond-topped pineapple pendant that detaches into earrings. Opulent, joyful, and steeped in French heritage, it’s a wearable reverie.
Dior – Diorexquis Brooch
A miniature world of wonder, the Diorexquis brooch by Dior transforms high jewellery into storytelling. A forest tableau unfolds in exquisite detail, where a pink enamelled fawn nestles among sculpted flowers, turquoise berries, and pearl-laden trees. At its heart, a shimmering mother-of-pearl backdrop evokes twilight skies, while diamonds, tsavorites, spinels and lacquered gold capture the whimsical spirit of an enchanted garden — one of three themes explored by Victoire de Castellane in this 163-piece haute joaillerie collection.
Mikimoto – Les Pétales
A masterclass in poetic precision, Mikimoto’s Les Pétales collection captures the fleeting beauty of rose petals swept by the wind. The Japanese house translates this delicate moment into jewels that shimmer with Akoya and South Sea cultured pearls, softly glowing morganites, and diamonds. Petals appear to drift across pearl strands or unfurl in the serene curves of conch pearl rings, evoking the fluidity of nature in motion. Lace-like necklaces and bracelets suggest the ripple of a breeze, while a set of brooches, composed of curving diamond-set lines, cradle conch pearls, Akoya pearls and sapphires in gentle shades of pink and white.
2) THE POETRY OF IMPERMANENCE
The most philosophical theme of the season was also the most radical: jewellery as a meditation on time, memory, and change.
Boucheron – Composition No.2
Claire Choisne’s Carte Blanche: Impermanence collection draws on the Japanese philosophy of wabi-sabi, where beauty resides in transience, asymmetry and quiet transformation. The collection comprises 30 unique pieces, each presented as a poetic still life — or composition — that can be worn or admired as sculpture. In Composition No.2, a magnolia branch appears mid-bloom, its petals traced in diamond-set aluminium and black ceramic, delicate yet suspended in time. A stick insect in rhodium-plated gold perches among the blossoms, heightening the sense of stillness and fragility. Here, impermanence is not a flaw but the very source of meaning — where high jewellery becomes a meditation on life, decay and the fleeting nature of beauty.
Nikos Koulis – Look Bracelet
Part of Nikos Koulis’ WISH collection, the Look bracelet channels the idea of fleeting moments — like a wish carried on the wind. While it departs from the collection’s dandelion motif, its sculptural form captures the same sense of poetic minimalism. Unlike other WISH pieces that use aluminium, it relies solely on the high-reflective power of polished white gold and diamonds. With bold geometry and Art Deco symmetry, the piece distils Koulis’ Greek heritage into a sharp, contemporary statement.
3) ECHOES OF HERITAGE
Many houses drew strength from their archives — not to reproduce, but to reframe history through a contemporary lens.
Graff – 1963
Graff pays tribute to its founding year with 1963, a high jewellery suite that channels the rebellious glamour of the Swinging Sixties. At its centre, a necklace composed of 7,790 diamonds — oval, baguette and round cuts totalling over 129 carats — traces hypnotic concentric ovals in white gold. A flash of pavé-set emeralds, discreetly tucked beneath the diamonds, offers a signature jolt of Graff green. Precision, energy and elegance converge in one of the house’s most technically ambitious creations to date.
Pomellato – Asimmetrico
Pomellato’s Collezione 1967 is a bold manifesto of the house’s Milanese identity, named for the year the brand was founded. The collection celebrates Pomellato’s spirit of creative independence and its unconventional approach to design. Among the standout pieces is the Asimmetrico necklace, a sculptural collar composed of 78 articulated rose gold segments pavé-set with white diamonds, designed to move fluidly against the skin. A series of aquamarines — each cut in a different shape and size — are set asymmetrically along the front, adding a vibrant splash of blue to the necklace’s graphic volume. It’s a striking example of Pomellato’s engineering finesse and chromatic instinct, reimagined through a distinctly contemporary lens.
Gucci – Marina Chain Necklace
Part of the Gucci Allegoria High Jewellery collection, the 2025 offering marks a confident evolution in the house’s fine jewellery language, balancing archival codes with colour-forward design. Structured around three core motifs — Horsebit, Labirinti Gucci, and Marina Chain — the collection explores heritage through bold form and saturated colour. Among them, the Marina Chain stands out: a joyful reinterpretation of a 1960s nautical design, transformed into oversized links of pink, green, yellow, orange and blue sapphires and tsavorites. Framed in pavé diamonds and polished gold, the necklace is exuberant, graphic, and distinctly Gucci — heritage reimagined with contemporary flair.
Chanel – Pink Hour Necklace
The Pink Hour necklace is part of Reach for the Stars, the final high jewellery collection by the late Patrice Leguéreau, who served as Chanel’s Creative Director of Fine Jewellery from 2009 to 2024. Under his vision, the house developed a distinctive high jewellery language rooted in movement, elegance, and celestial symbolism. This piece belongs to the Wings theme, inspired by Gabrielle Chanel’s maxim: “If you were born without wings, do nothing to prevent them from growing.” Crafted in pink gold and set with an oval-cut pink sapphire, pink sapphire beads, and diamonds, the necklace glows with the hues of dusk — light, articulated, and radiant. It captures Leguéreau’s enduring flair for poetic precision.
4) JEWELS IN MOTION
Movement and structure played a central role this season, as houses explored how high jewellery could behave more like sculpture: articulated, architectural, sometimes transformable.
Repossi – Blast
Repossi returns to its roots with Blast, a sculptural high jewellery collection centred on the motif of the infinite gold thread. The standout plastron necklace is composed of meticulously graduated gold bars, mirror-polished to catch the light, and set with 15 pear-shaped diamonds totalling 6.77 carats alongside 720 pavé-set stones. Inspired by tribal adornments, modernist art, and the maison’s 1980s heritage, the design plays with proportions and rhythm to create a bold yet fluid piece that sits like a second skin. It’s a statement of fullness, femininity, and Repossi’s Place Vendôme edge.
Cartier – Traforato Necklace
Part of Cartier’s En Équilibre high jewellery collection, the Traforato necklace plays with light, geometry, and chromatic harmony. Its openwork mesh structure reveals a rhythmic arrangement of diamonds, emeralds and onyx — three colours that are a signature Cartier palette. The design centres on a trio of octagonal Colombian emeralds, creating a sense of both precision and movement. True to the collection’s ethos, Traforato explores balance through contrast: solid and void, line and volume, tradition and modern abstraction. A masterclass in Cartier’s understated complexity.
Louis Vuitton – Savoir Set
A dazzling tribute to sacred knowledge, Louis Vuitton’s Savoir necklace and earrings are part of the Virtuosity High Jewellery collection’s “World of Mastery.” The necklace centres on a hypnotic 30.56ct Australian black opal in a rare triangle cut, its shifting red and green hues echoed by an emerald drop of 28.01ct and a string of hand-set emerald beads. Angular, architectural lines — referencing the maison’s trunk-making heritage — interweave with chevrons, Vs, and nail-style diamond settings. The earrings complete the set’s powerful geometry, each a reminder of Louis Vuitton’s storied savoir-faire, meticulously honed over 1,500 hours.
Dries Criel – Chrome Tourmaline Ring
Part of Dries Criel’s debut high jewellery collection — unveiled during Paris Haute Couture Week — this bold yet refined ring captures the Belgian designer’s sculptural sensibility. At its centre, a richly saturated chrome tourmaline is cradled in yellow gold, its deep green hue intensified by a graphic arrangement of white diamonds and green enamel. The geometric lines nod to architectural rigour while the domed silhouette conveys power and permanence. Criel’s first foray into high jewellery celebrates nature not through mimicry but through material essence — revealing beauty in elemental form, distilled and precise.
Tasaki – Grâce Éternelle
In Grâce Éternelle, Tasaki reimagines the classical pearl ring with bold architectural poise. A luminous South Sea pearl hovers next to a vivid yellow diamond framed in white diamonds, creating a striking counterpoint of volume and colour. The design speaks to the Japanese maison’s instinct for contrast — where softness meets geometry, and purity is heightened by light.
Vhernier – Ardis Collection
Making its high jewellery debut in Paris, Vhernier unveiled the Ardis collection in a quietly powerful presentation at the Atelier Brancusi, just steps from the Centre Pompidou. The choice of setting echoed the collection’s inspiration: modern sculpture. Artists such as Brâncuși, Hepworth and Max Bill inform the collection’s abstract yet organic forms — sculpted to follow the curves of the body. Ardis is presented in several iterations that explore different plays of light, shadow and volume through a mix of materials, including white gold, aluminium, and diamond pavé. The modular designs never repeat, creating a fluid, architectural rhythm that embodies Vhernier’s fusion of bold design and Italian craftsmanship.
4) THE EMOTION OF COLOUR
Colour this season was not just surface — it became a central language of emotion and narrative.
Bvlgari – Color Journey
Bvlgari closes its Color Journeys saga with a final chapter dedicated to tourmaline — the “stone of all colours.” Known for its vivid spectrum, the gem takes centre stage in a series of high jewellery creations designed not from sketches but from the stones themselves. A standout piece pairs polished green tourmalines with pink and orange tourmalines, framed by cabochon amethysts in a rhythmic arrangement that pulses with chromatic energy. Sculptural settings, bold colour contrasts and instinctive design define this finale — an ode to nature’s palette and the Roman house’s fearless embrace of colour.
Anna Hu – Butterfly Brooch & Orchid Minuet Ring
Anna Hu returned to Paris Couture Week with a lyrical display of 21 high jewellery creations that unite Eastern motifs with Western craftsmanship. A standout piece: a sculptural butterfly brooch crafted in titanium and enamel, with painterly wings edged in diamonds and anchored by a vivid blue-green tourmaline. Feather-light yet structurally complex, the design showcases Hu’s mastery of movement, material and symbolism — where nature, culture and art converge in wearable form.
Another standout from the collection, the Orchid Minuet ring captures the spirit of the Peking Opera heroine Mu Guiying in a vibrant bloom of colour and craftsmanship. Crafted in titanium and gold, the pastel-shaded petals are hand-painted using nano-electroplating pigments, while a 1.01-carat yellow-orange diamond burns bright at the centre.
Damiani – Ode All’Italia
Damiani drew inspiration from the landscapes and cultural heritage of its homeland for Ode All’Italia, a high jewellery collection unveiled during Paris Couture Week. The centrepiece is a necklace set with a 30.25-carat cushion-cut Colombian emerald, framed by a vivid arrangement of yellow and orange sapphires, spessartites, tsavorites and diamonds in a floral motif. The collection is divided into three chapters — Lights of the Sea, Landscapes of the Soul and Dwellings of Time — each capturing a different facet of the Italian spirit.
5) GOLDSMITHING MEETS COUTURE
Two final entries remind us that high jewellery does not stop at the neck or hand. It can become an object, a gesture, or a bridge between disciplines.
Buccellati – Spherical Velvet Evening Bag
Buccellati brings its signature ornamental language to the world of accessories with this spherical evening bag, part of the house’s 2025 high jewellery capsule collection. Inspired by archival clutches from the 1920s, the piece reimagines the classic minaudière as a wearable jewel. Black stretch velvet provides a sculptural canvas for a garland motif in white gold and diamonds, encircling the orb like a lace diadem. A yellow gold bangle-style handle finishes the composition — refined, functional, and unmistakably Buccellati. More than an accessory, it is an objet d’art that revives the tradition of haute couture adornment with contemporary poise.
Gucci & Pomellato – Monili Bracelet
Unveiled on the Gucci Cruise 2026 runway in Florence, the Monili bracelet is part of a new capsule high jewellery collection created in collaboration between Gucci and Pomellato. Named after the Italian word for “jewels,” the collection draws on Pomellato’s sculptural goldsmithing and Gucci’s leatherworking heritage to craft pieces defined by textural contrast and sculptural fluidity. This sinuous design knots together curves of pavé-set white gold and smooth black leather in a refined interplay of textures. At once minimalist and expressive, it reflects the collection’s ethos: timeless form shaped by two distinct Italian identities.
What emerged in Paris this season wasn’t a unified aesthetic, but a shared intention: to make jewellery speak. Whether drawing on nature, impermanence or cultural memory, the most powerful pieces invited us to pause, reflect and feel. These weren’t just objects of beauty, but of meaning — proving that great jewellery doesn’t just shine, it resonates.
