Grecian designer Nikos Koulis experiments with colours and textures in his latest collection of Spectrum jewels

Mirroring the sun's rays, Greek designer Nikos Koulis' Spectrum collection features geometric spikes and jagged edges, glistening with coloured gemstones.


Grecian born and bred, jewellery designer Nikos Koulis only has to look around the island on which he lives for inspiration. Past creations have often featured Mediterranean motifs derived from art and mythical tales, and for his latest Spectrum collection, he is once again influenced by his warm and fertile homeland.

Mirroring the sun's rays, geometric spikes jut proudly upwards from colourful jewels - a sharp silhouette that repeats itself throughout the collection. Gem-set rhodium darts descend from the lobe in a pair of earrings, framing grey pearls, while rows of points top a circular rose gold ring set with brown diamonds, white diamonds and pink tourmalines. The dramatic composition is typical of Koulis, who has a passion for avant garde design and beautiful gemstones.

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Koulis has incorporated a broad range of gems, in a rainbow of shades and textures, into these new jewels, many of which he is using for the first time. One ring alone incorporates black diamonds, baguette-cut white diamonds, emeralds and turquoise, while in an Art Deco-influenced brooch he experiments with white diamonds, tsavorites and green hematite.

The Spectrum collection has been crafted from a variety of metals, including rhodium, which Koulis has used regularly in previous works. In its black and grey forms, the dark background really makes the coloured stones zing. Though Koulis has previously worked with pink and yellow gold, particularly in his last collection, Phaedra's Box, he has embraced these precious metals in his latest jewels, adding real warmth to the collection. Another nod to the sun, no doubt, from Greece's most creative jeweller.

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