Once seen, Azza Fahmy’s jewellery cannot be forgotten, thanks to a unique combination historical depth with contemporary style, they are imbued with an unmistakable air of the richness of the heritage of Egypt. A look at Azza Fahmy’s latest designs confirms that the house continues its strong tradition of marrying storytelling and symbolism with strong design.
This approach makes Azza Fahmy is one of the most culturally expressive designers working today creating jewellery that is both steeped in history yet undeniably modern. I have chosen my favourite pieces from across a range of collections and share their design cues and my thoughts on why they resonate so strongly with women today.
Azza Fahmy’s work resonates because it treats heritage as a living, evolving language and the Turath Collection (above) that includes Roman Chain rings clearly reflect this philosophy. Turath, meaning ‘heritage,’ references traditional metalwork forms, while the Roman Chain ring nods to the to the extensive Mediterranean influence that infuses in Egyptian history.
The Lotus Choker (below), one of the most powerful designs from the Shen Collection, drawn from the ancient Egyptian symbol of the eternal loop of rope. The neck-wrapping structure fastened with a silver ‘rope’ reveals the workshop’s ability to create large pieces that are surprisingly wearable. The articulated panels, bring the timeless beauty and significance of the lotus flower into a bold neckpiece that despite its dimensions, sits lightly on the skin.
A different aspect of the designer’s aesthetic emerges in the Floral Tribal earrings (below), where emeralds bloom alongside delicate arabesque forms and Arab script. This fusion of botanical design with Middle Eastern motifs highlights the house’s ability to merge diverse cultural references in its characteristic house style.
The scarab, revered in ancient Egypt as a symbol of rebirth sits at the heart of Fahmy’s design language. In the Scarab Collection the iconic insect is cast in a new light and its pleasingly round shape is reimagined for today. The Scarab Lattice bracelet, with its openwork geometry, translates ancient motifs into fluid contemporary forms, while the chevalier ring cleverly wraps a diminutive scarab around the pinky finger. The Eye of Horus Scarab ring layers two powerful talismans: the protective Eye of Horus and the regenerative scarab giving the wearer not only adornment but the protective power of these two time-honoured guardians.
Every Azza Fahmy jewel pays homage to an artisanal tradition preserved through decades of workshop knowledge. The scarab chain (above) with each scarab linked, sculpted and carefully balanced, demonstrates the precision and repetition required for perfect flow and pleasingly tactile effect. The Scarab Lattice bracelet showcases the workshop’s mastery of openwork construction, ensuring strength without heaviness.
The Karnak earrings (above) and ring pay homage to one of Egypt’s most iconic temple complexes. Their silhouettes echo columned halls and monumental doorways, distilling the essence of ancient architecture into jewellery that feels intimate yet regal.
From the El Nur family, the Calligraphy Floral Bangle (above) transforms Arabic script into the architecture of the jewel. The frame of the bangle is built from flowing Arabic calligraphy, the strokes interlaced to form a structure that reads as both ornament and poetry. It is one of Azza Fahmy’s most distinctive design approaches transforming text into elegant jewellery freighted with emotion.
The Stone of Joy multi-way necklace (above) as its name suggests, is a pleasure to wear with its cascades of colourful, water tumbled and facetted gemstones interspersed with gold beads formed of Arabic calligraphy that read ‘endearment and mercy’ and ‘happiness and safety’. Its easy-going appeal and apparent simplicity are deceptive as the composition is a sophisticated construction of colour, proportion, movement and texture.
As different as each piece is, every one of them embodies Azza Fahmy’s skill at transforming cultural elements into refined jewellery that tie us to the past with the lightest of touches, offering a thoroughly modern way to wear jewellery rich in symbolism and meaning.
