My year in men’s watches

Rebecca Doulton looks back on the top 10 watch moments of the masculine kind from 2016.

Omega Speedmaster Moonphase watch

In a rare lull before the watch hunting season is officially declared open for 2017 with the inauguration of the SIHH watch salon in Geneva, it’s a good moment to look back on some of the highlights that made 2016 such a fascinating year for watch lovers.

Olympic branding

South African sprinter Wayde van Niekerk broke the 400m world record at the Rio Olympics wearing an RM 27-02 on his wrist. 

Although it seem eons ago, 2016 was an Olympic year and Omega, the official timekeeper, dominated the scene with its thematic collector’s watches, eclipsed in part by an unexpected gold medal moment for watch brand Richard Mille. As South African sprinter Wayde van Niekerk set a new 400m world record at the Olympic Games in Rio, beady-eyed watch fanatics zoomed in on his wrist, where they spotted a timepiece on a bright orange strap that looked uncannily like a watch worn by tennis ace Rafael Nadal. The news went viral, and watch blogs worldwide raced to confirm the news that Wayde van Niekerk was indeed running to glory with a Richard Mille watch on his wrist. 

Vintage revival

Monza Chronograph watch
The TAG Heuer Monza 40th anniversary reissue is faithful to the racy aesthetics of the original chronograph (£4,000).

The revival of all things vintage was in full swing in 2016 as golden oldies rejuvenated the watch scene. Icons of yesteryear like TAG Heuer’s 1976 Monza watch, pictured, designed to celebrate Niki Lauda’s first world championship with Ferrari, was reedited to the delight of TAG fans and won the coveted GPHG (equivalent of the Oscars for watches) Revival Watch Prize. 

Rolex surprised fans this year with the re-introduction of its Oyster Perpetual Air-King model, below, a popular aviator’s watch of the 1950s that bears witness to the brand’s historic aeronautical ties. Given their resilient nature, Rolex watches accompanied the 1933 Houston Expedition as it made the first-ever flight over Mount Everest at an altitude of more than 10,000 metres. 

Oyster Perpetual Air-King watch
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Air-King is an aviator’s watch that perpetuates the brand’s aeronautical ties (£4,150). 

Patek’s Nautilus turns 40

The year 2016 marks the 40th anniversary of the iconic Nautilus watch and Patek Philippe celebrates with two limited-edition models (£82,310 and £69,960).

Named after Captain Nemo’s fictional submarine in Jules Verne’s novel, Patek Philippe’s Nautilus watch has navigated the past 40 years with its basic design practically unaltered.

To celebrate the occasion, Patek released two limited-edition Nautilus models, one in white gold, the other in platinum, presented in an exact replica of the original cork box that housed the very first 1976 Nautilus watch, which was designed by Gérald Genta.

A moon lands on the Speedmaster

Omega’s legendary Speedmaster Professional, below, the watch that touched down on the surface of the Moon on board Buzz Aldrin’s wrist in 1969 and became known as the ‘Moonwatch’, finally got its very own moon in 2016. The Speedmaster Chronograph Master Moonphase was equipped with a moon phase indicator, faithfully replicating the pitted surface of the Moon and the footprint of an astronaut.

Speedmaster Chronograph Master Moonphase watch
The history of Omega’s iconic Speedmaster Moonwatch is still being written and this new Moonphase Chronograph pays homage to our celestial neighbour (£7,140).

A striking victory in the war for thin

Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater watch
Commanding the legion of Bulgari Octo watches in 2016, the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater broke the silence of a very quiet Baselworld watch fair in terms of innovation, positioning itself as the world’s thinnest minute repeater complication (POA).

The battle for ultra-thin watches wages on and even proponents of XXL girths like Panerai surprised us with leaner silhouettes. Bulgari takes the cake this year, however, with its handsome legion of Octo watches, which conquered yet another victory with the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater.

Fitted with a movement that is just 3.12mm in height, Bulgari’s minute repeater has the honour of being the thinnest complication of its kind on the market. Housed in a titanium case, the numbers on the dial and the perimeter of the small seconds counter were cut out to optimise the sound.

Chanel channels men

Monsieur de Chanel watch in beige gold
Presented in beige gold, the Monsieur de Chanel watch features a jumping hours and retrograde minutes complication (£23,250).

Chanel pulled an elegant rabbit out of its chapeau last year with the unveiling of its first men’s watch. The ever-popular J12 has played it both ways for decades and even the Boy.Friend has certain masculine traits, but the Monsieur de Chanel watch in beige gold is unequivocally masculine and the proud recipient of Chanel’s first in-house mechanical movement.

With a classy retrograde minute display fanning out in a 240º arc and a jumping hours display, the watch is as beautiful on the reverse side, where parts of the movement have been blackened for greater visual impact.

Polo back in play

Polo S Chronograph watch in steel
Piaget’s original Polo watch, released in 1979, was the watch of choice of the jet-set crowd with a penchant for expensive sporting events. Entirely revamped in 2016, the stylish Polo S (S for steel) is destined to become Piaget’s new luxury sports classic (£10,500).

Quite unlike its 1979 Polo ‘ultra-thin gold watch bracelet’ predecessor, immortalised by Urusla Andress at the 1980 World Polo Cup in Palm Beach, Piaget’s new Polo S collection is positioned to become the brand’s new luxury sports watch for men.  The first all-steel watch collection, the Polo S (for steel), is retailed at more competitive prices and hopes to attract a new generation of customers to the brand. With its vibrant blue dial – a trend that will be carried over into 2017 – the cushion-shaped case is equipped with Piaget’s 1160P automatic chronograph calibre.

Skeletons out of the closet

The passion for total transparency and skeletonised watches has not abated and practically every watch brand under the sun has pursued some kind of striptease to lure in fans of the genre. Louis Vuitton has firmly proved that its watches are not mere fashion accessories and secured the prestigious Geneva Seal for its magical Flying Tourbillon watch. A relaxing sense of weightlessness and levity, created by the vertical alignment of the movement, provides an open stage for the mesmerising rotations of the skeletonised flying tourbillon.

Flying Tourbillon “Poinçon de Genève” watch
Louis Vuitton secures the prestigious Poinçon de Genève quality seal for its aethereal Flying Tourbillon watch. 

Cool divers

Type 5 Dive watch
From the watch brand that displays time without hands, the Ressence Type 5 Dive Watch is ideal for fans of cutting-edge design (€31,500).

Divers were well catered to in 2016 with fun, acid-coloured dive watches from Ulysse Nardin, Audemars Piguet and Omega.

My personal favourite, however, was the Ressence Type 5 Dive watch. Inspired by the silhouette of a sea turtle, this astonishing underwater companion, which meets the official ISO 6425 standard for dive watches, combines contemporary graphic design and mind-blowing mechanical solutions to indicate the time without hands at depths of 100 metres.

World timers in every corner of the globe

World time watches were big in 2016. Displaying the time in 24 cities at a glance, they are undoubtedly one of the most useful travel companions for today’s globetrotters. Or jet-setters in the case of Patek Philippe’s Ref. 5230 World Time, below, the new model that will replace the brand’s famous Heure Universelle watch after 80 years in the limelight. With up-to-date city names and a stunning hand-guillochéd woven pattern in the centre of the dial, the time is set via a pusher at 10 o’clock.

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