Thirty brilliantly-hued jewels pay homage to the glorious tourmaline in the final chapter of the Bvlgari 'Color Journey' saga. The tourmaline is a fitting choice for this swan song collection dedicated to the joyous energy of colour. Bvlgari was among the first jewellers to elevate tourmaline to high jewellery status, since the 1950s, daring to select gemstones for their colour over value. Turamali, the Singhalese origin of the word, means "stone of all colours," which became the muse for this grand finale of 'Color Journey'.
In the spirit of celebrating colour, Bvlgari first launched the Color Journey saga in 2021 with dozens of jewels featuring neon-blue Paraiba tourmalines. Since then, each year, the Italian jeweller has focused on a different gem, ranging from spinels to emeralds and sapphires.
Now the tourmaline and its rainbow array of colours steps into the spotlight, turbo-charged by Bvlgari's unmistakably design style. Lucia Silvestri, Creative and Gem Buying Director at Bvlgari, tells The Jewellery Editor: "Colour has always been at the very heart of Bvlgari's creativity — it's part of our DNA, our identity, our way of seeing the world. With the Color Journey saga, we embarked on an extraordinary adventure to reveal the unexpected beauty of lesser-known gemstones, shedding light on nature's hidden treasures. This final chapter, dedicated to Tourmaline, is the culmination of that journey — a celebration of a gem that holds within itself a whole universe of hues. Tourmaline is the ultimate expression of chromatic freedom: bold, joyful, infinitely varied. Its diversity allowed me to explore new emotional dimensions of colour, to compose with instinct and passion. From the freshest greens to the deepest reds, its kaleidoscopic palette has inspired me to explore new harmonies, unexpected contrasts, and instinctive compositions that come to life through the very energy of the stones."
Bvlgari's iconic Serpenti and Tubogas shapes are incorporated into two of the necklaces, alongside other house design cues such as oversized cabochon cuts, intensely saturated contrasting colour schemes, a play of textures, and fluid, bold dimensions.
Seven standout necklaces dominate the lineup, led by the dazzling Neon Chromatique, featuring seven zesty green tourmalines that total 108.75 carats. The crisp beams of the green stones offer a tantalising contrast to seven baby pink tourmalines, creating a delicious composition anchored by sleek black onyx chevrons and the rich aura of drops of deep purple amethysts. A seductive serpent coils around the neck in the Serpenti Blush Chain set with two pear-shaped pink tourmalines of close to 30 carats each. The sinuous links of the rose gold chain form the infinity symbol and are entirely set with diamonds. The necklace embodies the hypnotic combination of beguiling femininity and power, the ultimate weapon of seduction.
The allure of pink and green brings the Tubogas Green Leaf choker to life, combining the technical brilliance of tubogas with the emotional power of colour. The slinky flexibility of the Tubogas mesh is punctuated by three cushion-cut green tourmalines (38.50 carats each) and two vibrant pink tourmalines.
Other highlights include the Symphony in Pink, featuring seven luscious rubellites that appear to drip like glossy drops of syrup from the rose-gold necklace. The Aurora Rubra Necklace showcases the range of crimson tones of rubellite, that most precious variant of the tourmaline family. The central rubellite evokes the pink-red light of the sunset, surrounded by the radiance of intensely coloured rubellite and amethyst beads. Ease of wear is achieved by the structure of over 60 individual modules, cleverly articulated to drape around the neck.
Full of the mystery of the cosmos, the Velvet Eclipse juxtaposes the smouldering intensity of rubellites with the pastel purity of pink kunzites against onyx inlays and starry diamonds. The fifty different elements of the necklace's structure graduate in size to draw the eye to the central 37.25-carat rubellite, a gem of blazing power. From piercing lagoon green to lush mossy tones, the green tourmaline has captured the imagination of Bvlgari's design team, expressed in the Verdant Harmony necklace. A 42.96-carat cushion-cut green tourmaline sits at the centre of this heritage-inspired design, in a choker fit for a Roman goddess.
What we are seeing today is another link in Bvlgari's distinctive style, which stems predominantly from the 1950s and 1960s when the Bulgari brothers (Paolo, Gianni and Nicola) embraced the exuberance and optimism of la Dolce Vita in post-war Italy. The brothers oversaw the design studio, with the young Lucia Silvestri learning alongside them.
Offering a welcome break from the predictable litany of diamonds, rubies, emeralds and sapphires while mixing precious and semi-precious stones Bvlgari ushered in a new style of jewels with elegant yet arresting chromatic combinations of vibrant cabochon-shaped gems set in smooth, simple gold forms, offering a thrilling alternative to the more traditional Parisian styles that dominated the market.
The pioneering spirit of Bvlgari lives on in these new jewels, which dive deep into pools of glorious colour and glossy curves, bringing us the epitome of Bvlgari style in its most precious form.
