Azza Fahmy, the Arab world's top luxury jeweller, unveils a high jewellery collection characterised by the house's unique fusion of historic and cultural references, and an impressive array of gemstones. The distinctive finishes of each piece are thanks to the use of age-old techniques kept alive thanks to Azza Fahmy's commitment to maintaining traditional crafts and incorporating them into contemporary luxury jewellery.
Founded in 1969, the independent Egyptian jeweller, established by Azza Fahmy from humble beginnings in Cairo's Khan el Khalili, has grown to become an international brand recognised as the leading luxury jeweller in the Arab world. Azza Fahmy and her daughters, Fatma and Amina, are at the helm of this company, which is primarily run by women. Their feminine sensitivity and sophistication shine through in these jewels.
Today, Azza Fahmy reaches new heights with the launch of the first high jewellery collection of one-of-a-kind creations, each set with highly precious gemstones. It has taken over 50 years for Azza Fahmy to feel that the time was right for this step up, prompted by the firm's mastery of design and production, expansion in the Middle East, and ensuing requests from faithful clientele.
Each piece is meticulously handmade in the house's Cairo workshop by a handful of master jewellers. The house's instantly recognisable style is evident both in the design of each jewel and the very manual production process that often employs historic or forgotten techniques.
When choosing what, in an ideal world, I would select for myself, I start by focusing on the knock-out gemstones that are the heart of this collection. Amina Ghali, Head Designer, explains that for the first time, the stones inspired the design. Amina Ghali travelled to Jaipur, India's gemstone hub, to cherry-pick the emeralds, tanzanites and rubellites that infuse each piece with high-voltage glamour. The vibrant and lively tones of the gems confirm that they are of the highest quality and outstanding clarity.
Click here to watch an Instagram reel with my top picks of these gemstones.
The Scripts of Love bangle and Garden of Light earrings, set with tanzanites, stand out thanks to their alluring violet colour, unique to this stone, which appeals to me due to the quality of the gemstones. Tanzanite is a relatively new stone discovered in Tanzania in 1967 in the Merelani Hills, in the shadow of the snow-capped Mount Kilimanjaro. Tanzania is still the only source of this stone, making it rare as well as highly desirable for its mesmerising colour, beautifully showcased in these two jewels. I would pair them with the Echoes of Nature rings, one with a 3.6-carat rubellite and the other with a brilliant green 4.2-carat emerald from Zambia.
If craftsmanship were my primary motive, I would opt for the Chains of Happiness necklace as a prime example of hand craft, where techniques both new and old are combined to create distinct effects. Two different types of chain provide the piece with flexibility and wearability. Notice how the diamonds are tapered on the crescent, and other diamond cuts and settings are used. Brimming with secret messages and stories, the Arabic script on the pendant reads 'happiness'. And of course, I can't ignore the vivaciously bright 9.19-carat Zambian emerald that adds majesty and importance to the piece.
Click here to watch an Instragram reel about the Chains of Happiness necklace.
I would also consider the Art Deco Calligraphy ring, designed to delight. The gold band is painstakingly hand-pierced with a small saw as was done centuries ago, cutting away the gold to spell out 'happiness' and 'joy'.
Design is key in my selection criteria, and these bracelets tick all the design boxes for me: they are true to the house's hallmark style, which in this case fuses Arabic calligraphy with floral elements and some impressive gemstones. The flowing script on the Echoes of Nature bangle spells out 'love' and 'peace', and the intricately worked gold features a 4.3-carat Zambian emerald, set in a perfectly balanced design.
Another favourite of mine is the Art Deco Calligraphy bangle, inspired by the turn-of-the-century heyday of Cairo. The Art Deco bangle is a good example of craftsmanship, particularly in the wire work, a technique the house has mastered since the 1980s, along with hand piercing to create the Arabic script. Always with a story to tell, the words are by the 12th-century Arabic-Persian mystic poet Shams Tabrizi, who talks of peace blossoming in the heart. It is set with four perfectly matched rubellites in this elegant design that bears the key design elements of Azza Fahmy's style.
Click here to watch an Instragram reel about The Echoes of Nature bracelet and Art Deco bangle.
I am drawn to jewels with a strong heritage, which is why the Fallahy earrings are so appealing. Steeped in history and with universal appeal, the iconic Fallahy silhouette is brought up to date with a contemporary edge, while honouring Egypt's traditional peasant jewellery. Azza Fahmy is an authority on Egyptian jewels and has extensively researched and documented her homeland's rich and diverse jewellery traditions and has written books on the topic, and museums worldwide collaborate with her.
The Fallahy earrings, echoes of which are seen in jewellery across the Arab world, the Mediterranean and Eastern Europe, are a great example of how the house pays homage to the wealth of its Egyptian heritage in both design and techniques, including the intricate filigree wirework. The stars and crescent evoke the Ottoman era of Egyptian history. Where possible, Azza Fahmy weaves in an uplifting message of love and the Arabic script reads 'endearment'.
Click here to watch an Instragram reel about the Fallahy earrings.
If money were no object, I would of course choose the ultimate masterpiece from Azza Fahmy's high jewellery collection. The Garden of Light choker combines exquisite gemstones, design, craftsmanship, and heritage. With a dazzling pear-cut aquamarine, the design is inspired by mid-19th-century Victorian style. Five strands of creamy Japanese Akoya pearls are spaced with gold bars set with diamonds, joined by a V-shape decorated with floral motifs and delicately set with diamonds. Look very closely and you can see that one of the little petals is decorated with the Arabic for 'blessing'.
Click here to watch an Instragram reel about the Garden of Light choker.
Elegant yet easy to wear, the Azza Fahmy high jewellery remains true to its heritage, is rich in references and brimming with charming details that enhance, but never overpower the richly saturated gemstones, offering the best of luxury jewellery with a strong personality.
To find out more, visit Azza Fahmy's locations in London's Burlington Arcade, as well as multiple locations in Egypt, Riyadh, Dubai, and Doha.
