Review of Bulgari Barocko high jewellery 2020 | The Jewellery Editor

Despite global lockdown, in mid-July Bulgari bravely held a virtual unveiling of Barocko, the latest of its annual high jewellery collections. Barocko is as passionately extravagant as we have come to expect from this Roman jeweller and the new jewels offer a high voltage dose of exuberance and all the glamour you could possibly hope for.

The art of jewellery drawings is fully expressed in this sketch of the Barocko Peacock necklace made up of a luscious mix of tanzanite and aquamarine drops, emeralds, sapphires, turquoise, chrysoprase and diamonds.

Following on from the 2019 Cinemagia theme of Italian film-making and the 2018 Wild Pop Warhol-esque inspired extravaganza, Barocko is all about the art of the Italian sixteenth century. And as its name suggests, this is a baroque flourishing with a contemporary twist. Tapping into the sensuality found in the richness of forms, texture and the wealth colour of this era, Bulgari makes the baroque a very sexy proposition indeed.

Ignasi Monreal, a Spanish artist living in Rome, was commissioned by Bulgari to create an animation and series of illustrations to set the mood. Monreal explains: “(This is) Italian Baroque but reviewed through a post-modern lens. It’s a camp re-telling of the famous Cavern allegory by Plato.” That certainly does set the scene for a high-colour, opulent remix of Italy’s great cultural flourishing. Inspiration comes from the artists and architects who etched its inimitable style in our global consciousness for perpetuity.

Barocko Lady Arabesque necklace by Bulgari — The Lady Arabesque necklace from Bulgari captures the Italian spirit of ‘mai troppo’ or never too much. Extravagant baroque arabesque forms swirl around a rich mix of coloured sapphires, Paraiba tourmalines and diamonds.

The baroque style is brought to life through generous volumes, plentiful use of vivid gemstones, an abundance of curlicues and sumptuously indulgent details in each of these one-of-a-kind jewels. The idea for the collection was sown during early morning walks around Rome by Lucia Silvestri who is Creative Director and Head of Gemstone Buying. Ms. Silvestri says of Barocko: “The thing I really loved about creating this collection is that Baroque is perfectly imperfect in shape and wonderfully rich in colour, as we are here at Bvlgari. We interpreted the movement with a touch of rock attitude for style, because Bvlgari is also rock! Thanks to our craftsmanship, the shape and volume of the collection ensures Bvlgari’s bold aesthetic vision, creating a rich collection for both design and quality. The unique stones and colour combinations that we’ve used in Barocko recall the magnificence of Rome and Bvlgari, spreading a message of joy and positivity.”

Bulgari Barocko Festa necklace — In true Bulgari style, the Festa bib necklace is a celebration of craftsmanship with 51 rubellite beads, 42 amethyst beads and 92 round diamonds set into a shimmering cascade of magnificent colour.

Only an Italian jeweller with the audacity of Bulgari could bring to life with such vibrancy this golden era of history and make it relevant all over again. This daring recreation of a time long past reminds us of the evocative power of strong design, exquisite craftsmanship and the very best gemstones. Who would have thought that we would be swooning over jewels that pay homage to the greatest names of the baroque era such as Bernini, Borromini or Caravaggio that most of us only know through dry textbooks or long forgotten museum visits?

Spanish artist Ignasi imagined Bulgari’s Barocko high jewellery collection as worn by Roman goddesses in an arcadian vision of Baroque Italy.
A 28.11 carat sapphire is surrounded by almost 400 diamonds in the delicate yet striking Sapphire Lace necklace from the 2020 Bulgari Barocko high jewellery collection.
If one jewel from Bulgari’s Barocko high jewellery collection captures the spirit of Bulgari style it has to be the Colour Wonder necklace that conjures up the dolce vita with citrines, peridots, rubellites, aquamarine, tourmalines, amethysts and diamonds.
The Ruby Drapery ring from Bulgari with a 5 carat antique ruby is inspired by the unequalled skill of the Renaissance sculpture Bernini to bring marble to life as seen in his impressive interpretation of draped fabrics.
A stunning 60.79 carat rubellite beams out from this necklace from Bulgari with 97 Akoya pearls that alternate with amethyst and rubellite beads for a fresh take on the baroque fascination with pearls, rubellite and amethysts.
The Colour Delight bracelet from Bulgari bursts with vivid tourmalines, peridots, amethyst and diamonds and evokes the Baroque era’s fascination with the ‘exotic’ as Western ships brought home intoxicating new colours and styles.
The classic combination of rubies and sapphires, beloved of the Baroque era’s nobility, are brought enriched with the generous addition of 20 round diamonds on these earrings from Bulgari.
The Lady Arabesque necklace from Bulgari captures the Italian spirit of ‘mai troppo’ or never too much. Extravagant baroque arabesque forms swirl around a rich mix of coloured sapphires, Paraiba tourmalines and diamonds.
In true Bulgari style, the Festa bib necklace is a celebration of craftsmanship with 51 rubellite beads, 42 amethyst beads and 92 round diamonds set into a shimmering cascade of magnificent colour.
The art of jewellery drawings is fully expressed in this sketch of the Barocko Peacock necklace made up of a luscious mix of tanzanite and aquamarine drops, emeralds, sapphires, turquoise, chrysoprase and diamonds.
All the elements of Bulgari’s potent style are present in the new Barocko high jewellery collection including the iconic Serpenti in this illustration by Ignasi that evokes the opulence of the Italian Baroque era.