Masterpiece London 2012 promises to be the best yet
This year's Masterpiece London fair promises to be the best
yet, and after two years of providing visitors with a veritable
treasure trove of antiquities, relics and modern wonders, that will
be no mean feat. Looking at art and design from antiquity to
present day, the fair offers you a chance to get up close with a
vast array of paragons of perfection, be they Degas or diamonds,
mirrors or miniatures, or in my case, jewellery. Here I've selected
a few potential standouts, and it's clear to see at first glance
that these are very special pieces indeed, with design,
workmanship, and minutiae of detail shining out of each and every
one.
The first designer to create
opening door rings, Theo Fennell's Castle Ring is a piece of
jewellery that one can literally get lost in. As Fennell himself
espouses, this takes us "away from mass-produced offerings that are
available anywhere in the world. This is truly special", and with
details as playful as the opening drawbridge with its very own
chain mechanism, it's hard to argue. The ring has been handcrafted
in yellow gold holding a 23.88ct black diamond. It sits perfectly
next to his other piece, the Cleopatra Brooch, which boasts
tsavorites, emeralds, rubies, diamonds, and a moonstone skull with
her hair in black spinel. It also boasts a scarab carved from
tektite, molten glass said to have formed from meteorites heating
and breaking up as they entered our atmosphere.
Symbolic &
Chase seem to also delight in colourful pieces with delicious
details. Firstly there's an articulated yellow gold serpent with
enamel motifs and a pearl-accented head, with a ruby eye. Made in
1840, this Swiss masterpiece opens to reveal a gold vinaigrette
compartment, and can be worn either as a necklace or wound around
the wrist with head in hand. Symbolic &
Chase also have a late 1920s French gem-set platinum parrot
brooch, with calibré-cut buff-top sapphires, rubies and emeralds,
while the little chap sits atop a baguette-cut diamond-set
perch.
Hancocks have a vibrantly coloured and aptly
named Tutti Frutti bracelet from Cartier; this
would have been part of the Tutti Frutti jewels, exuberant pieces
that consisted of coloured gems carved into leafy shapes, combined
with cabochons and smooth or ribbed beads. The gems themselves
originally came from India and became something a hallmark for Cartier during
the 1920s. What's so incredible is how much this bracelet mirrors
the Giuliano Bracelet also at Masterpiece London this year, a rare
archaeological revival-style bracelet from the 1880s.
Again, detail is delicious with so
much of the jewellery here, and the Verdura Heart on
display is testament to this; the hearts became something of a
trend in 1940s Hollywood and although Verdura was
influenced by baroque Sacred Heart imagery, his designs are closer
to the courtly heart jewels that were highly prized in Elizabethan
England. Also from the same era is the Ford Bracelet featuring five
delightful gold and enamel charms by O.C. Tanner
and Co., all on a Tiffany gold chain. Each charm is marked with
the specific model, date of manufacture, and quantity made.
Masterpiece London 2012 takes place from the
28th June until 4th July at the South Grounds of the Royal Hospital
Chelsea. Tickets range start at £20, with booking and more
information available here.