Avant-garde watches for men

Let your imagination soar with these out-of-the-ordinary watches that are paving the way for the next revolution in watchmaking. 

Urwerk UR-105 Raging Gold watch


4N Sapphire Planet


Transparency is a big thing these days in watchmaking and you probably won’t find anything bigger than this exceptional watch by the brand 4N. Housed in a totally transparent sapphire crystal case, the amazing mechanical manual-winding movement that powers the jumping hours and minutes is exposed in all its glory. Composed of 514 components, most of which you can see through different angles on the sapphire case, the complexity of the movement will take your breath away. Both the jumping hours and minutes are read off in a digital display on a series of overlapping discs and, in the case of this model, are highlighted in bold, bright orange to enhance legibility. Thanks to the double barrels in the movement, the power reserve of this watch is close to 10 days and the crown and pusher are made in white gold. A limited edition of just three pieces, you can customise the colours of the numerals to guarantee an intense and very personal viewing experience.

You can customise the colours of the numerals on this 4N Sapphire Planet watch to guarantee an intense and very personal viewing experience (€280,000).


Urwerk UR-105 Raging Gold

CHF 67,000

A hotbed of creativity, Urwerk is synonymous with avant-garde watches. The UR-105 collection is a perfect brand ambassador displaying the hallmark wandering hours that glide along the fixed minute scale and the unusual case, which is reminiscent of a futuristic watch that would look perfect on Darth Vader’s wrist. Decked out in solid gold armour, the new UR-105 Raging Gold watch comes with an imposing red gold bezel engraved with a hobnail Clou de Paris motif that is both forceful and inviting to the touch. Don’t get confused by the different apertures on the dial; reading the time is very straightforward and the four carousels with the hour indications (three on each) align the correct numeral on the minute track at the bottom of the watch, allowing it to travel across the 60-minute arc. If you turn the watch over you will see the twin turbines that regulate the automatic movement. A limited edition of 22 watches, the UR-105 raging Gold comes on a black alligator strap.

Urwerk’s UR-105 Raging Gold watch with wandering hours would look perfect on Darth Vader’s wrist (CHF 67,000).


Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance

CHF 67,000

Warning: do not be deceived by the fairly traditional-looking 43mm rose gold case. This mechanical marvel is crammed with technical fireworks that require a comprehensive grasp of physics and the phenomenon of resonance. In a nutshell, resonance is another word for synchronised motion, a concept that has fascinated watchmakers since the time of Christiaan Huygens (1629-1695), inventor of the pendulum clock. Resonance is all about how “one body in motion relays its vibrations to its surroundings” (the exciter) and how “another body with a similar natural resonant frequency to the first receives these vibrations...and starts vibrating at the same frequency”, (the resonator).  Armin Strom has taken the concept of resonance and equipped this watch with two resonant regulators, visible on the dial. Thanks to the stabilising effect it has on timekeeping, coupled with the conservation of energy, the Mirrored Force Resonance watch will appeal to hardcore watch enthusiasts.  Made entirely in-house by Armin Strom in a limited edition of 50 pieces, the brand has, quite understandably, registered a patent for this model.

This Mirrored Force Resonance watch was made entirely in-house by Armin Strom (CHF 67,000).


Bell & Ross Aero BR 03-92GT


The world of aviation has been one of the key design factors of Bell & Ross watches bringing the graphic clarity of the instruments in a cockpit to your wrist. The transition to concept bikes and cars was only natural and creative director Bruno Belamich has gone that extra mile to create the synergy. Instead of just designing a watch inspired by a car, he has created a prototype concept car, the AeroGT, as the starting point for a watch collection.The ultra-technical design of the steel case recalls the fuselage-style body of the car and the red aluminium crown – a lightweight material used in sports cars – adds a great sporty touch. The openworked dial allows a view of the movement and is protected by a smoked-glass window. This three-handed model features a fixed red triangle at 12 o’clock like the dashboard counters of a GT sports car and comes on a quilted and perforated black leather strap and red stitching.

This Bell & Ross Aero BR 03-92GT was inspired by the world of aviation (£3,950).


MB&F Horological Machine no. 6


Strictly for Trekkie fans, MB&F’s Horological Machine No.6 undertakes its galactic missions with a transparent sapphire crystal case designed to reveal the machine room of this extraordinary spaceship. “I always thought that the most beautiful part of the HM6 was its movement, and that it was a shame not to show it. But it was only recently that the technology of machining sapphire crystal allowed us to create such a complex case,” explains MB&F founder Max Büsser. At the bow of the ship, two spherical domes rotate vertically displaying the hours and minutes in large, highly legible numerals, while at the stern, twin spherical turbines spin horizontally. In the centre, a dome protects the 60-second flying tourbillon, and a retractable shield blocks harmful radiation from oxidising the lubrication oils in the regulator. The HM6 is a limited edition of 10 pieces in red gold.


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