Watches & Wonders, the most important luxury watch salon of the year, opens its doors today in Geneva. This year the annual event at the Palexpo convention centre is the largest ever with 54 exhibitors boosted by eight new brands including British watchmaker Bremont. We had a little preview of some of the amazing horological creations launching this year.
CHANEL J12 COUTURE O’CLOCK
The sell-out Chanel exhibition at the V&A and the Apple+ drama New Look about Dior and Chanel’s professional relationship has cast a spotlight on what goes on behind the scenes in the couture atelier. Therefore, it seems only natural that Chanel’s signature J12 limited edition series featuring Mademoiselle Chanel should illustrate her at work. The charming suited and hatted figure of the great couturier is depicted on dials in two scenarios, either seated surrounded by the tools of her trade, or during a fitting in the atelier with a mannequin and wielding her scissors.
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS: LADY ARPELS JOUR NUIT WATCH
The Paris brand’s ateliers are some of the finest in the world turning out exquisite enamelled metier d’arts dials in their Poetry of Time series, however it is the complications and the awesome night sky aventurine dials of the Lady Arpels Jour Nuit designs in the Poetic Complications collection that really stand out. The 33 and 38mm diameter watches are new models of a 2008 moonphase design with a diamond moon and stars pursuing a yellow sapphire sun as they emerge above the mother of pearl horizon.
PIAGET POLO 150TH ANNIVERSARY EDITION
While Piaget’s sautoir watches are compellingly beautiful including the three new ones being launched at Watches & Wonders, it’s the fresh design of Piaget’s classic Polo, in a men’s and women’s version, that marks the first phase of Piaget’s 150th anniversary celebrations. The luxury brand launched watches in 1957 and the sporty Polo in 1979 and the sculpted lines of this steel watch with its rubber strap features the gadroons of the historic Piaget Polo with the casual chic allure of Polo Date.
TAG HEUER CARRERA DATE 36MM
The sporty Carrera Date has enjoyed huge publicity over the past year on the wrist of Ryan Gosling, aka Ken in the Barbie movie, with last year’s dial a tribute in bubblegum pink. This year we are seeing a move away to blush pink dials as a trend and the new Carrera Date has a more sophisticated rather than playful style, although it is still very rooted in the original 1963 design created Jack Heuer for racing drivers. However, this elegant design is very much for post-race parties rather than the pit lane.
CHOPARD IMPERIALE 36MM
In 2010 Chopard co-President and artistic director Caroline Scheufele unveiled the Imperiale collection in Venice, adding exquisite new pieces that display the artistry of Chopard’s craftsmen during subsequent years. This year a new addition equipped with a Chopard 96.17-C movement features the signatures of the collection like dagger-type hands, lotus-flower crown and lugs shaped like ancient columns), but it is the eye-catching dial that commands attention. It features dainty mother of pearl and enamel marquetry worked in a floral grid pattern and surrounded by diamonds. As with all Chopard’s jewellery and watches now, the Imperiale watch is made using ethical gold.
H. MOSER & CIE PIONEER CENTRE SECONDS CONCEPT CITRUS GREEN
When it comes to appearances H. Moser & Cie has form with its eye-catching lacquer dials that feature blue, green or brown colours in sophisticated fumé finishes (where colour is more intense on the outer rim, fading to the centre). The 42.8mm steel cases are broad and ultra-minimalist, reduced simply to the Super-LumiNova® hands, but mostly to the colour. The 2024 version of the automatic Pioneer Centre Seconds Concept is in a radiant citric green that’s like a jolt of caffeine to the brain. It’s a supercool watch for summer days and party nights.
