Watches and Wonders 2022, was the first physical version of this new format watch show in Geneva. Watches and Wonders is an extension of the original Salon International de Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) with not only the founding Richemont brands present but arrivals from the now defunct Baselworld show such as Rolex, Patek Philippe and Chopard.
The result is a vast well-organised, luxuriously appointed, soothingly cream-coloured exhibition with a watch array the likes of which have never before seen in the Palexpo halls. Although men’s watches still rule the waves , here are 12 of the best luxury women’s watches for 2022 as spotted at Watches & Wonders.
Cartier’s Privé and Metiers d’Art watches did not disappoint with their elaborate decorations and rich colours. Chanel ventures into even more whimsical territory with its Caged Birds necklace watch. Van Cleef & Arpels once again delighted with its Poetic Complications and this time a meadow of blossoming flowers tracks the hours. The Hermès Kelly padlock watch goes from strength to strength with a more precious and versatile jewellery version. With an archive of scarf designs to choose from, the Arceau Les folies du ciel has a colourful enamel depicting the folly of men's early attempts to fly.
Houses such as Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin proved that serious horology can also be exquisitely beautiful with their respective moon phase and perpetual calendar for women.
On the jewellery side, Piaget’s Limelight Gala Precious with its intricately ‘Palace’ engraved gold bracelet and perfect degradation of diamonds merging into tsavorites on the dial was a highlight. Jaeger-LeCoultre has developed and whole new calibre that randomly sends a shooting star across the inky blue aventurine dial of the gold Rendez-Vous. Though not strictly a women’s watch, I was impressed with the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 40 with its sequence of pink, blue and purple sapphires set perfectly flush into the fully-functioning rotating bezel. One for a sunny day setting sail from Miami.
The range of craftsmanship and ingenuity shown in these 12 watches confirms that women are more and more an important segment of the luxury watch market.
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From the Cartier Privé collection comes this exotic skeleton version of the Tank watch with a Chinese-inspired grill in a gold case. Limited edition of 20 pieces with a manufacture-made manual winding movement.
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Only 50 pieces will be made of this Cartier Métiers d’ Art irregular-shaped gold watch decorated with a swirling, vibrant design in champlevé enamel. It is powered by a manufacture-made manual winding movement.
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The Cartier Coussin Innovation brings a new technology to the watch case with these models that despite being entirely set with gemstones are flexible to the touch and thanks to their mesh structure, when squeezed flex with ease.
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The Chanel Mademoiselle Privé Cage necklace watch is on a chain set with 132 diamonds and 46 Akoya pearls. The birds are made of 2 oval pearls and in total the entire piece is set with just over 20 carats of diamonds. A dial is set into the bottom of the little cage and it is a one-of-a-kind creation.
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Van Cleef & Arpels’ Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier in white gold was inspired by a design from the mid C19th. Time is displayed by the opening of 12 of the enamel flowers on the dial. In this whimsical creation, the flowers blossom every 60 minutes in random patterns setting off a charming display with over 166 moving elements.
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The gold padlock watch on this Kelly model by Hermès unscrews to be dangled from a handbag or necklace or wherever you choose. The padlock shape comes from the handbag designed by Robert Dumas in the 1930's.
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The Hermès Arceau Les folies du ciel watch captures the playful approach to watchmaking by this Parisian house. The engraved enamel dial is inspired by Loïc Dubigeon’s Les folies du ciel silk scarf motif designed in 1984 to honour the early days of aeronautical ambition.
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Patek Philippe’s Ref 7121/200G-001 Moon Phases is not just a sophisticated mechanical creation but its beautiful blue sunburst dial and two rows of brilliant-cut diamonds in a white gold case make this a highly desirable object.
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This elegant Vacheron Constantin ultra thin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar reflects the firm’s 200 years of experience in making mechanically superior watches with the added complexity of being a wafer-thin movement and case.
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Piaget has mastered the art of highly-textured gold engraving as seen in the Palace Décor on the white gold bracelet of the Limelight Gala Precious watch. The dial is malachite and the bezel and dial are set with 174 diamonds and there are a further 22 tsavorites in the bezel.
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The Jaeger-LeCoultre pink gold Rendez-Vous watch features the new automatic winding Calibre 734, a complication that sends a shooting star across the aventurine dial at random intervals. The gold bezel is formed of two concentric rings set with 131 diamonds.
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Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 40 is available for the first time in white gold and comes with a dazzling rotating bezel set with pink, purple, and blue sapphires and diamonds. The case has a further 46 brilliant-cut diamonds and is equipped with the Calibre 3235 that displays the hours, minutes, seconds and date.
