Phillips Jewels and Jadeite Live Auction July 2020

For me the 21.52-carat Colombian no-oil ring (Lot 624) is the star of the show with an estimate of HK$7,500,000 - 9,500,000). The vibrant green, clear depths of this near-perfect emerald in a remarkable size is a prime example of the qualities that have captivated mankind since they were first discovered in the lush Cordillera Oriental mountains of Colombia. The evenly saturated green-blue hue and the clarity is reminiscent of the famous ‘Muzo Green’ ideal colour, referring to the historical Colombian mine that entranced the Spanish

Conquistadores in the C 15^th.  Once the Spanish had shown the world these green wonders, emeralds soon became highly coveted and objects of desire for European monarchs and every dynasty since from Mughal rulers to the Romanovs. The exceptional combination of the intensity of colour and high clarity achieved with no use of oils or any other enhancements along with its impressive 21.52-carat weight make this ring a rare find and one that connoisseurs will be watching closely. The simplicity of the clean and elegant emerald-cut only adds to the sublime beauty of this jewel.

If you are after a more wearable emerald ring, then look out for lot 563(estimate: HK$3,000,000 – 3,800,0000), which is a smaller size Bulgari ring with at a 6.38 carat emerald surrounded by diamonds ring. Again its remarkable colour is free of any oils which is an acceptable way to fill in small fissures or fractures in the stone’s structure when it is needed.

Other emerald highlights of the sale include a pair of Harry Winston Colombian emerald and diamond earrings (Lot 605, estimate: HK$2,800,000 - 3,500,000). These two no-oil emeralds weigh 4.52 and 4.44-carats and in true Winston style, are surrounded by a cluster of marquise and pear-cut diamonds totalling 11.75 carats that capture the glamour of this famed New York jewellery house.

Also from Harry Winston is a12.55-carat D/IF Type IIa diamond ring (Lot 631 estimate: HK $6,800,000 - 8,800,000). Circa 1953 this ring exudes the luxury and optimism of post-war design in which diamonds were star of the show, with metal reduced to a minimum and diamond-cuts gaining in sophistication. Named the ‘King of Diamonds’ Harry Winston brought the high voltage energy of New York to haute joaillerie as captured in this classic style ring. This superb D-colour diamond is also a highly desirable Type IIa which describes it limpid qualities as well Internally Flawless; a highly desirable trio of features that are showcased in the impressive rectangular cut.

Diamond connoisseurs will be drawn to sunshine-bright 20.25-carat Internally Flawless Fancy Vivid Yellow Diamond ring that is the top lot of this sale. (Lot 614, estimate: HK$8,800,000 - 12,000,000). The size of this diamond combined with the intense saturation of yellow has won this stone the ‘Fancy Vivid’ grade, the top colour ranking and its Internally Flawless category make it a savvy collectors’ prize.

A selection of vintage jewels includes two pieces by the famous names Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. The Van Cleef & Arpels brooch made circa 1960 (Lot 588, estimate: HK$120,000 - 200,000) exalts the natural grace of a tulip with its carved coral petals and textured gold stem and leaf. Its life-like style is very much of the era and a piece for collectors of signed jewels with a penchant for the early 1960’s design. The Van Cleef & Arpels Duck brooch (Lot 623, estimate: HK$35,000- 50,000) depicts a happy waddling bird with a bright green chalcedony eye and coral beak and feet that would make a perfect gift for an animal lover. The most spectacular animal jewel is Chopard’s 'Peacock' bangle made in 2018. (Lot 606, estimate: HK$1,800,000 - 2,200,000). The impressive bracelet wraps the peacock’s tail twice around the wrist, its body and head resting against the wrist. The elaborate open-work gold structure of the tail is set with sapphires, tsavorites and Paraiba tourmalines. The head and body are set with different colour sapphires, tsavorites, lazulites, lapis lazuli and diamonds.

Karen Suen, award-winning Hong Kong based designer and former dancer and actress has been making high-end jewellery for over a decade.  Her haute joaillerie approach of making just one of each jewel and presenting it behind closed doors to her clients, means that her exquisite jewels have attracted the attention of private collectors and auction houses. This sale includes three of her jewels, two of which feature unusual natural pearls, one of her favourite gemstones. The conch pearl, pink diamond and diamond necklace (Lot 541, estimate: HK$1,400,000-1,800,000) is the epitome of feminine elegance with its powder pink, softly contoured conch pearls offset with brilliance of pink and white diamonds. The look is completed with a matching ring (Lot 539, estimate: HK$350,000 - 450,000) and pendant earrings (Lot 540, estimate: HK$500,000-600,000).