Pearl jewels with attitude

Pearls continue to evolve as creative designers explore their many facets, offering exciting new ways to wear this most classic of gems.

  • The designs of Anthony Lent have always excited me. The work of a master goldsmith, I am loving the edgy look that is emerging under the guidance of Anthony’s sons, David and Max. This ring is based on anatomical illustrations from the Renaissance era, with the skull cracked open to reveal a snow-white South Sea pearl ($2,185). 
  • One of my favourite jewellers, Athens-based designer Nikos Koulis has toyed with pearls before but never devoted a whole series to them. So when I heard he was launching the all-pearl Lingerie collection, I couldn’t wait to see the result. True to form, these Lingerie hoop earrings have it all: attitude, innovation, style and elegance (€21,850).
  • German pearl jeweller Gellner takes this classic gem and melds it with a slither of gold in the Deep Impact ring. By making a delicate incision in the Tahitian pearl, Gellner’s artisans have created space to wrap a gleaming ribbon of rose gold around the orb, with a row of sparkling diamonds cutting through the pearl’s iridescent shimmer (£1,945).
  • With New York designer Thakoon Panichgul at the helm and a newly opened boutique in Paris, Japanese pearl jeweller Tasaki is making very stylish waves in Europe. Is this Abstract Star necklace Thakoon’s tribute to David Bowie’s alter-ego, Ziggy Stardust? Wishful thinking, perhaps, but it’s got spangly jumpsuits written all over it (€77,600).
  • This pair of rings by YOKO represents a refreshingly cool new direction for this London-based brand that specialises in pearls in every size, shape and colour. The between-the-finger design has been done before, but the monochrome and black-on-black colour combinations give a strikingly contemporary look (left, £3,000; right, £2,400).
  • Messika high jewellery diamond necklace
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  • Emily Ratajkowski in high jewellery Bulgari necklace

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