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Nirav Modi's spectacular new Mughal Collection

India is a hothouse of haute joaillerie, and renowned Indian jeweller Nirav Modi is showing the world why with his new Mughal Collection

8 November 2012

With a total weight of just over 154 carats, the diamonds set into Nirav Modi's Mughal cuff, bracelet and necklace are as impressive as they are rare. This is haute joaillerie of the highest order; true collector's pieces crafted by one of India's most talented diamond jewellers.

Modi's new Mughal Collection is the culmination of a lifetime spent in the diamond industry. Since the age of 19, the third-generation diamond jeweller has dreamed of transforming this most precious of stones into mini masterpieces. He has certainly succeeded in becoming a respected name outside his home country - Modi is the only living Indian jeweller to have had his work featured on the cover of Christie's Hong Kong catalogue - but he isn't driven by fame. His ambition is to see India recognised, once again, as one of the world's greatest creators of fine jewellery.

Inspired by the iconic floral borders and beautiful single flowers depicted in paintings by the Mughal miniature school of art, which thrived in northern India between the 16th and 19thcenturies, the collection, which is limited to 100 pieces and comprises a necklace, choker, bracelet, earrings and ring, is a breathtaking example of Modi's commitment to detail and craftsmanship. He began by sourcing the very best diamonds and developing unique cuts before setting them in designs worthy of such precious jewels. Each piece took between six and eight months to perfect, and the Mughal diamond cut alone - a unique new cut created exclusively for this collection - took 15 months to fine-tune.

Each element of the floral motif has been handcrafted with different diamond cuts - leaves and veins with calibre-cut baguettes, set "table down" for spectacular sparkle, another with a pear-cut diamond, and yet another studded with round brilliants. The flower head is a single, round solitaire surrounded by Mughal Cut diamonds. Each Mughal Cut petal is a single diamond, sourced, cut and polished specifically for each piece. Worked on by four different artisans - specialists in the different stages of the cutting and polishing process - this unique diamond cut has 23 facets and, unlike the half-moon cut it resembles, the corners have been painstakingly cut and tapered.

Bold and intricate from afar, close up, the composition of different diamond cuts shows great vision, with the large solitaires and pear cuts providing the wow factor and the baguettes, round brilliants and Mughal Cut diamonds giving each piece its incredible visual appeal. Dripping in diamonds they may be, but by combining a variety of different cuts, the collection is as fascinating to look as it is fabulously sparkly.

The pieces in the new Mughal Collection are price on application. Given their carat count, however, and the appeal of Modi's jewellery to serious collectors, there's no doubt the lucky owner of the stunning 88.49ct Mughal Flower Necklace will look - and feel the weight of - a million dollars every time they slip it on.



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