Nailed it: iconic David Webb Tool Chest jewellery is given a new lease of life

By Rachel Garrahan in New York

Think American jewellery design and the name David Webb immediately springs to mind.

During a relatively short career, the designer - who was only 50 when he died in 1975 - created many iconic pieces, ranging from his animal bracelets to his bold, colour-rich totem necklaces.

In that time he built an enviable client list that included Wallis Simpson, Jackie Kennedy and American Vogue editor, Diane Vreeland.

The work at his Madison Avenue atelier continues today as a team of highly skilled craftspeople recreate this quintessentially modern David Webb jewellery from his archive of 40,000 designs.

The company is now entering a new era with the introduction of its first e-commerce platform, and it is marking the occasion with the relaunch of the iconic David Webb Tool Chest Collection.

The collection was created by Webb in 1971 as the new decade ushered in a period of uncluttered elegance in reaction to the chaos of the tumultuous 1960s.

Always open to inspiration, whether from a book of knots or Egyptian antiquities at the Metropolitan Museum, David Webb took the humble nail - that most basic of building tools - and adapted it for high jewellery.

The collection includes gold curved bracelets, knotted neck collars, spiral earrings and knotted nail cufflinks, and is designed to be worn by men and women, any time, anywhere, with anything.

One of my favourite pieces is a gold crossover David Webb Tool Chest bangle, with diamond and platinum tips decorating the nails, which can be worn on its own or stacked for extra impact.

The bold curves of the Infinity Nail earrings, with the designer's signature hammered finish that demands to be touched, elevate the mathematical symbol to new heights of beauty.

Minimalist as the collection is, the Double Tip Nail ring adds some of David Webb's signature colour, with the nail wrapping itself around the finger, topped and tailed with a choice of ruby, amethyst or turquoise cabochons.

The most elegant hardware around is available at davidwebb.com, Net-a-Porter, Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus stores across the United States.

David Webb Tool Chest Collection Curved Nail earrings with brilliant-cut diamonds in hammered gold and platinum ($23,800).
David Webb Look Book Christmas 1971 featuring the original David Webb Tool Chest jewels, reproduced courtesy of the David Webb Archives.
David Webb photographed in his 57th Street Boutique, March 1975. Image: WWD [c] Conde Nast.
David Webb Tool Chest Collection Double Tip Nail ring with cabochon rubies abd brilliant-cut diamonds in hammered gold and platinum ($15,500).
David Webb Tool Chest Collection Knotted Nail cufflinks in hammered gold ($5,200) and Bastille cufflinks in hammered gold ($3,200).
David Webb Tool Chest collection Nail Link bracelet in polished gold ($12,300) and Bent Nail earrings in polished gold ($2,600).
David Webb Tool Chest Collection Nail ring in hammered gold ($2,950).
David Webb Tool Chest Collection Spiral Nail pendant in hammered gold ($2,400) or on a leather and gold cord as pictured ($575).
David Webb Tool Chest Collection Twisted Nail collar in polished gold ($11,600) and Twisted Nail Bangle in polished gold ($8,200).
David Webb Tool Chest Collection Knotted Nail cufflinks feature the signature David Webb hammered finish at the head of each nail.
David Webb Tool Chest Collection Bastille gold cufflinks feature the main pyramid motif from the David Webb Bastille jewellery collection. Crafted from Webb's signature hammered yellow gold, the Bastille motif sits upon a solid base that is attached to a hinged link bar.
David Webb Tool Chest Collection Diamond Crossover Nail bangles with brilliant-cut diamonds in hammered gold and platinum ($23,500).