So committed is Pomellato to its founding principle of ‘prêt-à-porter’ jewels that in its 53 years of existence, it has never actually launched a high jewellery collection. This doesn’t mean that the house has not created one-off, highly precious jewels over the years, but this is the first time that it has officially gathered together its finest creations and billed them as such.
CEO Sabina Belli explained the logic: ‘Basically all our jewellery is high jewellery because we have one hundred master goldsmiths in-house making everything by hand with amazing artisan skills. And in Italy we don’t like to distinguish between every day and special. Every day is a special moment. This is a high jewellery tribute to our iconic designs, another way to express them.’
So rather than dream up a whole new universe, as most jewellers do when it comes to high jewellery, Pomellato sticks to its design stalwarts. Just think of the extravagant themes that houses like Van Cleef & Arpels and Bulgari conjure up each year compared to Pomellato’s instinct to elevate to high jewellery status the chain, a very specific colour palette of gems and its trademark sensual outsized volumes.
Creative Director Vincenzo Castaldo says of the collection: ‘The creative vision of La Gioia is that we did not intend to create a traditional, conservative high jewellery collection in the Place Vendôme style. This is not us. We wanted to find our own way to high jewellery, we didn’t want to invent a new narrative, we wanted to celebrate our own story.’ A simple premise that could only be pulled off with the rigorous design philosophy the house embodies, exquisite craftsmanship and an eye for the most vibrant gem stones.
The result is breathtakingly beautiful jewels that are undeniably Pomellato and dying to be worn, to be grabbed out of the display case and draped on the skin, preferably under a warm summer sun catching the light with every move. Unfussy and true to Pomellato’s rigorous Milanese design discipline, this is high jewellery that I can see a woman buying for herself and wearing without having to don a formal frock or have the car door opened for her. It is refreshing to see high jewellery that doesn’t dictate a dress code or impose itself with awe and splendour. Wear a big smile and come as you are is what La Gioia is all about. I think Pomellato’s founder Pino Rabolini would approve as after all, he made his first jewels for the founding sisters of feminism who were brave enough to rid us of convention and conformity and see a bright new future for women. And La Gioia plays its part in that journey.
Inspired by the unique stone cut used in the classic Nudo rings, Pomellato riffs on the theme to create this opulent Cascade necklace set with peridots and tsavorites.
Showing the Milanese firm’s skill in both goldsmithing and gemsetting, each link of these bracelets from Pomellato is set with hundreds of vibrant gemstones for a stunning yet easy to wear effect.
Evoking an icy cool mood white frosted topaz and diamonds Pomellato creates a strikingly beautiful necklace using design elements that are staples of the house’s design portfolio re-imagined to create new effects
Evoking the colours of the famous Grotto Azzurra in Capri, this bib-style necklace from Pomellato drapes in tiers different cuts and shades of blue topaz to conjure up the eternal appeal of the Mediterranean.
With an eye for the most exciting and vivid colour gemstones, Pomellato makes an art of combining cuts and hues as seen in these unusual absinthe peridot earrings.
Using pearls for the first time Pomellato combines a strand of Tahitian pearls with a chunky pendant entirely set with black, brown and white diamonds that echo the iridescence of these top quality pearls.
Scouring the globe for the most enticing gemstones, Pomellato adds vitality to this Mineralismo choker set with Amazonite, normally found in Brazil, in a design evocative of a scorpion’s tail with gem-set sting in its tail.
Billed as a work of art, the Chameleon chain from Pomellato presents a mesmerising rainbow of gemstones using an extraordinary selection of 27 different colour hues.
The Gourmette chain, a classic Pomellato design is treated to 2900 brown diamonds with a total of 69 carats that took the master jewellers 190 hours of work to complete.
The Nudo Cascade necklace from Pomellato features peridots and quartz that are set back to back to add depth and volume to the gems. Zesty green tsavorites complete the leafy look of this necklace.
Each and every one of the thousands of stones set into the Chameleon necklace was meticulously chosen by Pomellato’s gem sourcing team to ensure a fluid transition of colour that ripples through this exceptional necklace.
Random gemstone pavés are a house speciality shown to stunning effect in this sapphire and diamond lariat style necklace from Pomellato fondly known as the Flamingo.
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After many years as a freelance journalist and editor specialising in watches and jewellery, together with Christine Pasquier, Maria founded The Jewellery Editor. Maria’s work appears in a wide variety of notable publications, including the Financial Times, Intelligent Life, Telegraph ...
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