Couture Show 2016: the debut designers to watch out for

Rachel Garrahan gives us the lowdown on her top five premiering designers at this year's Couture Show in Las Vegas.

Neha Dani one of a kind custom green rhodium finished Jolene earrings in 18ct gold with diamonds and tsavorites

The Couture Show in Las Vegas is just days away so, here at The Jewellery Editor, we are preparing to be dazzled yet again by the burst of creativity and innovation that characterizes this annual show. 

Many well-established designers will be back to show off their latest creations, including Stephen Webster, Todd Reed and Irene Neuwirth. One of the most exciting parts of the show, however, is meeting the new designers who are joining the Couture crowd for the very first time. Bringing a unique eye to jewelry design from wherever they may live in the world, they snap up the opportunity to join the community and connect with their fellow designers, as well as the top stores in the US and beyond.

So, without further ado, here's my pick of the five new designers I am most excited about seeing at this year's show.

Ioanna Souflia

Ioanna Souflia's monochrome Symbiosis ring is made with black gold, marble from Thasos and grey diamonds (£4,740).
Ioanna was born and raised in Athens before leaving for London to study jewelry design at Central Saint Martins. She returns to her Greek roots with Symbiosis, her first jewelry collection since graduation, which contrasts the snowy whiteness of hand-carved marble from the island of Thasos with blackened gold and grey diamonds. Her boldly elegant, monochromatic collection demonstrates the contrasting influences of Ioanna's work: the sculptural forms of Art Deco and the cool modernity of Futurism.
 

Neha Dani

Neha Dani one of a kind custom Jolene earrings in rhodium-plated 18ct gold with diamonds and tsavorites ($26,000).

Neha hails from New Delhi and her one-of-a-kind pieces combine the rich, bright colors of her home country with a sculptural creativity that is completely her own. Named one of JCK's Rising Stars in 2014, she unveils the new nature-inspired Cadence collection at her first Couture Vegas. With every piece carved in wax before being brought to life in custom-colored rhodium-plated gold and meticulous pavé, such as the contrasting tsavorites and diamonds of her dramatic Jolene earrings, her work is guaranteed to make its wearer the center of attention wherever she goes.

Eva Fehren

Eva Fehren designed the futuristic Sputnik 4 earrings in blackened gold with rows of inverted white diamond ($5,765).

New York designer Eva Zuckerman created Eva Fehren with long-time friend and business partner Ann Gorga. With pieces such as her famous X ring, she has quickly made a name for herself with an edgy, minimalist collection that dedicated fans use to layer and make their own personalized jewelry statement. One of the nominees in 2015 for the CFDA Swarosvki Award for Accessory Design, Eva will be unveiling a range of new pieces this year, including her space age-inspired Sputnik earrings in signature blackened gold and edgy inverted diamonds.

Kavant & Sharart

Embrace nature and the ocean with Kavant & Sharart's Wave earrings set in rose gold with white diamonds ($9,690).

I first spotted the feminine, three-dimensional curves of Kavant & Sharart's contemporary jewelry collection two years ago and I am delighted to see husband and wife duo Kenny and Shar-Linn, who split their time between their native Bangkok and Singapore, make their Couture Vegas debut. Their work, which mixes colored gems with mother-of-pearl and diamonds, is a perfect marriage of their contrasting styles and inspirations - his organic, off-beat style is inspired by nature and the ocean, and hers by the geometry of Art Deco, Oriental and modern art.

Tejen

Channel the Ancient Egyptians with the Tejen Long Diamond Capstone Arc earrings in Fairmined gold and diamonds ($5,575).

Tejen is the result of another creative collaboration. Fashion veterans Isabel Encinias, who is based in Paris, and Mark Kroeker in New York, have created a collection that puts a new twist on minimalist jewelry design, which is no mean feat in this crowded space. Handcrafted in France, exclusively from ethically sourced gold and precious stones, Tejen is named after the Ancient Egyptian word for an obelisk - tejen translates as “needle of stone” - and its inaugural collection uses the iconic shape as its key motif. Also inspired by rays of light, the collection features sculpted spikes and curving arches, which end in inverted diamond pyramids, and certainly puts the cool into couture.

 

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