Haute Horlogerie from TAG Heuer
TAG
Heuer's motto "Swiss avant-garde since 1860" is befitting of
their new haute horlogerie collection. We take a look at their
recent remarkable timepieces incuding the MikrotourbillonS.
Arguably their most ambitious chronograph to date, it fits right in
with their classics such as the Carrera, the Monaco, Autavia and
the more recent Mikrograph.
The MikrotourbillonS is the first
tourbillon 1/100th of a second chronograph that can be
stopped and started thanks to a dual chain design. Jack Heuer
himself describes it as: "A physical force and a machine so complex
that it seizes your breath, with as many components - muscles and
bones - as a human, and its own beautiful, tireless heart, pumping
infinite energy from its impossibly intricate core". With two
tourbillon mechanisms visible on the watch face, this is the first
chronograph capable of certification-level precision timing. By
separating the watch chain from the chronograph chain, TAG
Heuer have overcome one of the greatest problems of chronograph
design: to leave watch operation undisrupted by the function of the
chronograph. The MikrotourbillonS is inspired by the 1963 Carrera,
one of the TAG Heuer greats. The case is made of tantalum with rose
gold horns and is finished off with a hand-sewn alligator
strap.
The same dual chain architecture is
present in all of their 'Mikro' timepieces, such as the Mikrotimer
and the Mikrograph seen here. The 1916 Heuer Mikrograph made
history by being the first stopwatch capable of timing to 1/100th
of a second. Previously timing was only precise to 1/5th second.
This limited edition re-incarnation of this historical piece is
presented in a rose gold Carrera case. Beating at 28,800 and
360,000 beats per hour respectively only 150 pieces will be made of
each.
Outside of the 'Mikro' watches is
another familiar face but with a brand new mechanism. Over the past
five years we have seen the development of the Monaco V4 concept
watch, with that unmistakably bold and masculine watch face
favoured by Steve McQueen. The Monaco V4 has taken five years to
realise and the new mechanics replace the usual pinion and gear
transmission with a belt-driven movement. The belts themselves are
thinner than human hair and so ten times smaller than anything
similar produced perviously. With the heritage of the Monaco behind
it, it's no surprise that the cylinders, belts, and other parts of
the movement resemble a high-performance racing engine.
At TAG Heuer haute horlogerie meets
haute joaillerie as the masculinity associated with the brand gives
way to more feminine forms. The TAG
Heuer Formula 1 Lady Yin Yang is made of white gold with a
yin-yang motif on the dial set with diamonds. In total, it contains
234 baguette diamonds and 245 brilliant cut diamonds. Grabbing
headlines at this year's BaselWorld show, TAG
Heuer unveiled their Link Lady collection with Cameron Diaz.
The star piece was the TAG
HeuerLink Lady Diamond Star Haute Couture concept watch. The
dial seems to float in space and the automatic movement is housed
in a rose gold case and bracelet set with 192 diamonds. A more
futuristic take on women's jewellery watches is the Diamond Fiction
concept watch, a mix of diamonds and LED technology that shows how
avant-garde TAG Heuer is.