savoir faire

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Dior VIII: savoir faire the Dior way

We have all heard the word 'savoir faire' or 'know how' bandied around so much that it is easy to brush it away and not give it the respect it deserves. After all, savoir faire is the very essence of luxury and particularly at the house of Dior where many very different crafts come together in creating the Dior VIII watches.

Inspired by the house's aesthetic codes and in particular the couture designs of Mr Christian Dior himself, the Dior VIII timepieces are a distillation of all that is Dior interpreted in a watch. And watch-making which is one of the crafts that demands the most precision and an awful lot of know how. And furthermore, many of the watches are also diamond set or feature dials made of slivers of rare gems and stones such as sugilite or even feathers involving another raft of skills from the stone cutter to the gem setter. For the feather-set rotor, a 'plumassier' or feather expert, of which you can be sure there are not many around, is employed. This skill is more normally found in the haute couture work shops for feathered accessories and details on the haute couture clothes.

The process starts with the designers breathing in the very air that floats through the Avenue Montaigne boutique and ateliers where the haute couture creations are daintily stitched by the seamstresses who work above the salon. Faithful to the Dior codes, the very first Dior VIII, named for Mr. Dior's lucky number 8, was all black, like his famous 'little black dress" picks up on several of Mr Dior's key designs that play with volumes as epitomised in the shape of his famous 'Bar" jacket with its nipped-in waist and exaggerated shoulders.  The pyramid 'cannage' pattern that his seamstresses meticulously picked out with invisible stitching is echoed in the origami-like pattern that appears on the bracelet of the watch and around the bezel.

Then came the Dior VIII in white, a wink to the all-white toile 'mock ups' of couture dresses that were presented to the client at the first fitting.  As with a clothes collection, there is day, cocktail and evening wear and the Grand Bal Haute Couture creations are closest to the haute couture gowns that take the breath away with their impossible lightness, grace and beauty. Each one of a kind watch captures the spirit of a gown and transforms it into a watch with references to colour, shape and even pleats and lace.

To make these flights of fancy, from a hand painted sketch from the design studios into a ticking reality, many hours of work of a wide range of skills are required. Once designed, the work is handed over to Dior's watch facility deep in the snowy Swiss mountains in La-Chaux-de-Fonds, at the very heart of the watch making tradition.

Here the many different craftsmen from dial makers to case polishers and of watch makers all focus on one aim: to make each and every Dior VIII perfect. With the more exotic variants, stone carvers capable of slicing wafer thin discs of hard stone are employed as are gem setters who work to more stringent tolerances than in the jewellery trade as the technical parameters leave little leeway for even the slightest deviance from plan. A mother of pearl dial has to be cut out from the very shell of an oyster and subjected to stringent controls to ensure it has just the right lustre and regularity and of course be perfectly flat, not something that Mother Nature always manages to provide.

Stringent quality controls mark each step of every component and of course the finished watch. The watches are tested for their resistance to impact, corrosion, water tightness and even ageing. All this savoir faire and hard work mean but one thing to the final wearer: perfection. So that all the lucky owner of a Dior VIII needs to know is that her watch has been made with the very best savior faire and that magic touch of Dior.

 

 

 

 

 

  • The Dior VIII Black Automatic with diamond-set dial, 33mm.
  • Each Dior VIII watch design starts with a gouache-drawing

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The Dior VIII Black Automatic with diamond-set dial, 33mm.

The Dior VIII Black Automatic with diamond-set dial, 33mm.

Each Dior VIII watch design starts with a gouache-drawing

Each Dior VIII watch design starts with a gouache-drawing

Pastel-dresses by Dior that inspire the choice of coloured precious stones set in the bezels of the Dior VIII. Photo-Demarchelier

Pastel-dresses by Dior that inspire the choice of coloured precious stones set in the bezels of the Dior VIII. Photo-Demarchelier

DiorVIII watches alongside the couture gowns that inspired the colour choices.

DiorVIII watches alongside the couture gowns that inspired the colour choices.

Dior's No Nah San suit that like the Bar jacket, creates a stylised silhouette, interpreted in the Dior VIII watches. Photo-Demarchelier

Dior's No Nah San suit that like the Bar jacket, creates a stylised silhouette, interpreted in the Dior VIII watches. Photo-Demarchelier

DiorVIII-The-Bar-suit---HC-SS1947---Photo-Demarchelier

DiorVIII-The-Bar-suit---HC-SS1947---Photo-Demarchelier

The toile of an haute-couture dress that was in the creative spark behind the all white Dior VIII. Photo-Sophie-Carre

The toile of an haute-couture dress that was in the creative spark behind the all white Dior VIII. Photo-Sophie-Carre

Glorious haute couture gowns by Dior.

Glorious haute couture gowns by Dior.

Les Ateliers Horlogers Dior in the heart of the snowy valleys of Switzerland, the traditional watch making centre of this country.

Les Ateliers Horlogers Dior in the heart of the snowy valleys of Switzerland, the traditional watch making centre of this country.

Assembly of the Dior VIII's automatic movement

Assembly of the Dior VIII's automatic movement

Many crafts and skills are employed in creating a watch and when precious stones such as sugilite are used a specialist stone carver cuts the precious stones.

Many crafts and skills are employed in creating a watch and when precious stones such as sugilite are used a specialist stone carver cuts the precious stones.

Sugilite, a purple stone, that is used on the Dior VIII dials is one of the precious stones that has to be cut to precise tolerances.

Sugilite, a purple stone, that is used on the Dior VIII dials is one of the precious stones that has to be cut to precise tolerances.

Mother-of-pearl dials are cut into plates straight from the shell.

Mother-of-pearl dials are cut into plates straight from the shell.

The hands of the watch are laid over the malachite-set rotor and diamond studded dial. Every component has to be precise to within microns to allow the mechanics and hands to operate smoothly.

The hands of the watch are laid over the malachite-set rotor and diamond studded dial. Every component has to be precise to within microns to allow the mechanics and hands to operate smoothly.

And to top it all off, the gem-set bezel is put in place.

And to top it all off, the gem-set bezel is put in place.

Feathers are found on the Dior VIII new dials that require the expertise of the 'plumassier' a rare craft that is sometimes employed in haute couture creations, and now the dial of a watch.

Feathers are found on the Dior VIII new dials that require the expertise of the 'plumassier' a rare craft that is sometimes employed in haute couture creations, and now the dial of a watch.

Feathers are painstakingly set into the rotor of the Dior VII watch.

Feathers are painstakingly set into the rotor of the Dior VII watch.

Pretty as they may be, the Dior VIII is a tough watch and is subjected to stringent tests such as this shock test.

Pretty as they may be, the Dior VIII is a tough watch and is subjected to stringent tests such as this shock test.

More shock resistance tests for the Dior VIII to ensure that each one works to perfection when subjected to the rigours of everyday wear.

More shock resistance tests for the Dior VIII to ensure that each one works to perfection when subjected to the rigours of everyday wear.

And of course, after testing for shock resistance, water tightness, corrosion and precision, the final check is to ensure that the watch is looking its best possible.

And of course, after testing for shock resistance, water tightness, corrosion and precision, the final check is to ensure that the watch is looking its best possible.

The front of the Dior VIII Black Automatic with coloured circle dial made of amethyst, 38mm.

The front of the Dior VIII Black Automatic with coloured circle dial made of amethyst, 38mm.

The Dior VIII White 28mm Quartz with mother of pearl diamond-set dial

The Dior VIII White 28mm Quartz with mother of pearl diamond-set dial

The front of the Dior VIII Grand Bal Haute Couture Model No.2

The front of the Dior VIII Grand Bal Haute Couture Model No.2

The front of the Dior VIII Grand Bal Haute Couture Model No.1 with an opal dial and malachite rotor.

The front of the Dior VIII Grand Bal Haute Couture Model No.1 with an opal dial and malachite rotor.