Dior VIII: savoir faire the Dior way
We have all heard the word 'savoir
faire' or 'know how' bandied around so much that it is easy to
brush it away and not give it the respect it deserves. After all,
savoir faire is the very essence of luxury and particularly at the
house of Dior
where many very different crafts come together in creating the Dior
VIII watches.
Inspired by the house's aesthetic
codes and in particular the couture designs of Mr Christian Dior
himself, the Dior VIII timepieces are a distillation of all that is
Dior interpreted in a watch. And watch-making which is one of the
crafts that demands the most precision and an awful lot of know
how. And furthermore, many of the watches are also diamond set or
feature dials made of slivers of rare gems and stones such as
sugilite or even feathers involving another raft of skills from the
stone cutter to the gem setter. For the feather-set rotor, a
'plumassier' or feather expert, of which you can be sure there are
not many around, is employed. This skill is more normally found in
the haute couture work shops for feathered accessories and details
on the haute couture clothes.
The process starts with the
designers breathing in the very air that floats through the Avenue
Montaigne boutique and ateliers where the haute couture creations
are daintily stitched by the seamstresses who work above the salon.
Faithful to the Dior codes, the very first Dior VIII, named for Mr.
Dior's lucky number 8, was all black, like his famous 'little black
dress" picks up on several of Mr Dior's key designs that play with
volumes as epitomised in the shape of his famous 'Bar" jacket with
its nipped-in waist and exaggerated shoulders. The pyramid
'cannage' pattern that his seamstresses meticulously picked out
with invisible stitching is echoed in the origami-like pattern that
appears on the bracelet of the watch and around the bezel.
Then came the Dior VIII in white, a
wink to the all-white toile 'mock ups' of couture dresses that were
presented to the client at the first fitting. As with a
clothes collection, there is day, cocktail and evening wear and the
Grand Bal Haute Couture creations are closest to the haute couture
gowns that take the breath away with their impossible lightness,
grace and beauty. Each one of a kind watch captures the spirit of a
gown and transforms it into a watch with references to colour,
shape and even pleats and lace.
To make these flights of fancy,
from a hand painted sketch from the design studios into a ticking
reality, many hours of work of a wide range of skills are required.
Once designed, the work is handed over to Dior's watch facility
deep in the snowy Swiss mountains in La-Chaux-de-Fonds, at the very
heart of the watch making tradition.
Here the many different craftsmen
from dial makers to case polishers and of watch makers all focus on
one aim: to make each and every Dior VIII perfect. With the more
exotic variants, stone carvers capable of slicing wafer thin discs
of hard stone are employed as are gem setters who work to more
stringent tolerances than in the jewellery trade as the technical
parameters leave little leeway for even the slightest deviance from
plan. A mother of pearl dial has to be cut out from the very shell
of an oyster and subjected to stringent controls to ensure it has
just the right lustre and regularity and of course be perfectly
flat, not something that Mother Nature always manages to
provide.
Stringent quality controls mark
each step of every component and of course the finished watch. The
watches are tested for their resistance to impact, corrosion, water
tightness and even ageing. All this savoir faire and hard work mean
but one thing to the final wearer: perfection. So that all the
lucky owner of a Dior VIII needs to know is that her watch has been
made with the very best savior faire and that magic touch of
Dior.