Dear Dior a colourful love letter to the past
'Dear Dior' is the name of the new collection of high jewellery
by Dior unveiled at the Biennale des
Antiquaires 2012. Creative The collection is an explosion of
colour in outsized rings, earrings and brooches and as with all of
Victoire de Castellane's work, it never fails to surprise with its
eye-searing and unexpected combinations of stones, and in
particular opals. This collection has an abstract theme which is a
departure from Victoire de Castellane's normal approach to
designing which usually has a strong narrative. Previous
collections like the Bal des Rose had a story to tell linked to the
house's heritage in which imaginary roses get dressed in haute
couture gowns before heading out to the ball.
The name of each set of jewels or piece is made up of two or
three elements: a detail from an haute couture dress mixed with the
name of the central stone or a harmony of colours: Dentelle
Chantilly Multicolore, Organza Brodé Paraïba, Résille Bouquet
d'opales, Guipure Framboise Rebrodée, Broderie Grenade Irisée,
Dentelle Opale d'Orient, Dentelle Saphir Iris, Tulle Pointillés
Colorés, Dentelle Médaillon Soleil, Résille Grenat Exotique and
Dentelle Tourmaline Rebrodée.
"It is a couture story," the designer told me at the
presentation in Paris. "The idea is that today we have too much
information from the internet, lots of signs around us and more and
more people doing a lot of real jewellery with poetic and creative
themes so I wanted to do a style exercise with something more
abstract playing only with colour and stones and settings. I also
wanted to play with the idea of couture and embroidery."
Turn a piece over and you will see that in contrast to the
jostling colours on the front of the jewels, the backs are dainty
renditions of lacy metal, the designs of which are all from the
Dior lace archives from the 1950's and reproduced in gold. "The
idea of two different stories on each side means it is never
boring," explains Victoire de Castellane.
The press release says that the jewels are inspired by the
costume jewellery Monsieur Dior used to design for his couture
collections in the 1950's. Victoire de Castellane also tells me
that the jewels are like: "an explosion of many stones. It is like
when you are in an airplane at night and you see all the lights of
the city sparkling, I want to have that kind effect. I want an idea
of crumbled stones."
But there is more to these jewels. Victoire de Castellane tells
of more threads of inspiration that weave into the rich texture of
this most opulent of collections: "It can be Renaissance, it
can be Russian, it can be Indian. It really is about exoticism,"
she says. What I see is Victoire de Castellane's love of colour
unleashed with diamonds playing second fiddle. "I love colours,"
she confirms. "I think colour is life. It is so important and so
attractive for me. I like to play with different colours and make
contrasts or degradés or special mixes that can be stunning.
It's about the magic of stones. They are like super-power
jewellery, like when you are a child and you want super powers. I
imagine it gives you super powers."