Chanel looks to the stars for the Biennale des Antiquaires
Chanel was at the Biennale des Antiquaires to present the '1932'
collection of jewels that celebrate the
80th anniversary of Gabrielle Chanel's Bijoux de Diamants of 1932 in
Paris. For the event, Chanel has created 80 diamond jewels that
echo the themes of the original collection. The motifs dear to
Madame Chanel and present throughout her work include stars,
comets, suns, fringes, ribbons and feathers as well as Leo, the
lion, her star sign. Chanel loved to wear her jewellery with as
much liberty as her clothes and often wore several pieces
stacked-up and was known to mix real gems with costume jewels.
Always experimenting, her 1932 diamond collection could be worn in
the hair or draped across a shoulder and 'open' rings made diamonds
float over the finger as if by magic. Read more about the 1932
exhibition by clicking here.
Like Chanel's original 1932 jewels, these re-interpretations are
easy to wear with no clasps or fastenings and move with the same
ease as her couture creations. Take the feather brooch that almost
looks as if it is going to flutter with the slightest breeze and is
so well articulated that it falls on the skin allowing it to be
worn as a bandana, a brooch or pinned to the hip.
The star of the show is the Comète necklace that swoops around
the neck and displays an impressive 15 carat white diamond set into
the heart of the shooting star but there is plenty more.
An original Pathé film reel in black and white covers the
original opening and best captures the audacity and admiration that
exhibition commanded. Here is a transcript of the sound track that
brings to the 1932 exhibition to life and puts these jewels into
"In her famous apartment on Fauburg Saint Honoré Chanel launches
her new diamond creations. Wax busts protected behind glass rest on
their plinths like antique torsos with ravishing eyes, curled
lashes and genuine hair untouched by any perm, lily and rose is
their complexion. Only a woman can scatter precious stones so
gracefully through hair with jewels cascading like gossamer ribbon.
Irregular stars on invisible thread echo the shape of the tiara.
The Big Dipper becomes a pendant. There are inimitable bows and
glittering suns of yellow diamonds set in gold. A comet coils
gently around a neck without enclosing it completely. A bracelet -
just a simple twist. Open rings display stones which sit magically
between fingers. Chanel brings diamonds back into vogue by marrying
art with apparent casualness."