Chanel looks to the stars for the Biennale des Antiquaires

Leading commentary on jewellery and watches
by Maria Doulton

celestial

Chanel looks to the stars for the Biennale des Antiquaires

Chanel was at the Biennale des Antiquaires to present the '1932' collection of jewels that celebrate the 80^th anniversary of Gabrielle Chanel's Bijoux de Diamants of 1932 in Paris. For the event, Chanel has created 80 diamond jewels that echo the themes of the original collection. The motifs dear to Madame Chanel and present throughout her work include stars, comets, suns, fringes, ribbons and feathers as well as Leo, the lion, her star sign. Chanel loved to wear her jewellery with as much liberty as her clothes and often wore several pieces stacked-up and was known to mix real gems with costume jewels. Always experimenting, her 1932 diamond collection could be worn in the hair or draped across a shoulder and 'open' rings made diamonds float over the finger as if by magic. Read more about the 1932 exhibition by clicking here.

Like Chanel's original 1932 jewels, these re-interpretations are easy to wear with no clasps or fastenings and move with the same ease as her couture creations. Take the feather brooch that almost looks as if it is going to flutter with the slightest breeze and is so well articulated that it falls on the skin allowing it to be worn as a bandana, a brooch or pinned to the hip.

The star of the show is the Comète necklace that swoops around the neck and displays an impressive 15 carat white diamond set into the heart of the shooting star but there is plenty more.

An original Pathé film reel in black and white covers the original opening and best captures the audacity and admiration that exhibition commanded. Here is a transcript of the sound track that brings to the 1932 exhibition to life and puts these jewels into context.

"In her famous apartment on Fauburg Saint Honoré Chanel launches her new diamond creations. Wax busts protected behind glass rest on their plinths like antique torsos with ravishing eyes, curled lashes and genuine hair untouched by any perm, lily and rose is their complexion. Only a woman can scatter precious stones so gracefully through hair with jewels cascading like gossamer ribbon. Irregular stars on invisible thread echo the shape of the tiara. The Big Dipper becomes a pendant. There are inimitable bows and glittering suns of yellow diamonds set in gold. A comet coils gently around a neck without enclosing it completely. A bracelet - just a simple twist. Open rings display stones which sit magically between fingers. Chanel brings diamonds back into vogue by marrying art with apparent casualness."

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28 more pictures...

: The original cover of the 1932 press kit for the exhibition, held in Chanel's own apartment.

: An article in 'VU' from November 1932 covering Madame Chanel's diamond jewels exhibition in Paris.

: The original 1932 Franges necklace, draped over one of the lifelike wax mannequins.

: The original Noeud necklace from Chanel's 1932 exhibition.

: From the new collection inspired by the 1932 exhibition is the Chanel '1932' ring in 18ct white gold, set with a 1.5ct princess-cut diamond and 238 round-cut diamonds with a total weight of 1.5ct.

: Chanel 'Facettes' ring in 18ct white gold, set with 158 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 2.3ct and 27 fancy-cut sapphires weighing 21.4ct.

: Chanel 'Galaxie' ring in 18ct white gold, set with 10 baguette-cut diamonds totalling 1.5ct, 164 brilliant-cut diamonds weighing 1.2ct and a 6ct oval-cut sapphire from Kashmir.

: Chanel 'Voie lactée' ring LG in 18ct white gold, set with 79 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 2.6ct and a white South Sea cultured pearl with a diameter of 12.2mm.

: From the new collection inspired by the 1932 exhibition, the Chanel 'Couture' earrings in 18ct white gold, set with 274 round-cut white diamonds totalling 2.5ct, 16 baguette-cut white diamonds of 1.5ct and 236 brilliant-cut black diamonds weighing 1.5ct.

: From the new collection inspired by the 1932 exhibition, Chanel 'Fontaine' bracelet in 18ct white gold, set with a 1.5ct round-cut diamond, 231 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 12.7ct and 37 fancy-cut diamonds weighing 2.6ct.

: Chanel 'Céleste' brooch in 18ct white gold, set with 881 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 12.6ct, 24 baguette-cut diamonds totalling 2ct, a 79.3ct Australian baroque cultured pearl, three Indonesian cultured pearls of 7.6-11.1mm diameter and 15 Japanese cultured pearls of 2.5-4mm diameter.

: Chanel 'Constellation du Lion' ring in 18ct white gold, set with 157 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 1.9ct, a 1.5ct round-cut diamond and a 91ct fancy-cut crystal.

: From the new collection inspired by the 1932 exhibition, Chanel 'Etoile Filante' head jewel in 18ct white gold, set with a 1.0ct brilliant-cut diamond, 164 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 11.7ct, 54 baguette-cut diamonds totalling 3.2ct, 22 princess-cut diamonds totalling 0.9ct and 40 fancy-cut diamonds with a total weight of 0.9ct.

: Chanel 'Plume enchantée' earrings in white gold, with 243 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 4.8ct, four pear-cut diamonds, 142 round-cut pink sapphires totalling 11.8ct and 16 pear-cut pink sapphires totalling 10.6ct.

: From the new collection inspired by the 1932 exhibition, Chanel 'Soleil' brooch in 18ct white gold, set with 1765 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 8.7ct and 16 brilliant-cut yellow diamonds weighing 1.5ct.

: From the new collection inspired by the 1932 exhibition, Chanel 'Comète' necklace in 18ct white gold, set with a 14.8ct round-cut diamond, 823 round-cut diamonds totalling 61ct and 34 princess-cut diamonds totalling 1.9ct.

: Chanel 'Nuit de Diamants' necklace in 18ct white gold, set with 319 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 11.9ct, seven round-cut diamonds totalling 2.9ct and facetted black-diamond beads totalling 453.3ct.

: Chanel 'Clair-obscur' cuff in 18ct white gold, set with 348 round-cut diamonds totalling 9.4ct and titanium.

: From the new collection inspired by the 1932 exhibition, Chanel 'Franges' cuff in 18ct white gold, set with 397 round-cut diamonds totalling 26.4ct and 70 baguette-cut diamonds totalling 13.3ct.

: Chanel 'Cosmos' watch in 18ct white gold, set with 537 brilliant-cut diamonds with a total weight of 4.2ct, 29 fancy-cut diamonds totalling 3.8ct and 31 princess-cut diamonds of 0.9ct. Black satin bracelet. Quartz movement.