Vintage Seekers shine a light on forgotten treasures
It's been almost two decades since
the vintage bug hit the high street and since then we've seen a
multitude of pretenders, selling what are essentially second-hand
wares rather than unique, individual and genuinely vintage pieces
that carry with them heritage, charm, and a one-of-a-kind quality
not found anywhere else. Self-labelled curators of a heritage
lifestyle, Vintage Seekers are most definitely the latter,
and here we see a collection that certainly holds true to that
ethos.
One of the pleasures of looking at
pieces such as these is the wide array of designers, styles and
time periods on display. It seems almost strange to say so so soon,
but jewellery from the 1980s is already earning itself vintage
prestige and here are two pieces from Stanley Hagler NYC. The red
choker and earrings feature an intricate jewelled flower cluster
with a variety of beads against gilded bronze leaves; chokers were
a rarity for Hagler and to have such a necklace chest-piece from
him adds to what is already an exceptional find. Also available is
Stanley Hagler's Bee Swarm bib style necklace. Just how did Stanley
Hagler come up with the idea of setting a swarm of bees lose on
your décolletage? It is this playfulness and sense of humour that
sets this piece apart. And I love the fact that the stones he has
chosen are honey coloured.
Stanley Hagler established his
company after working as a business advisor to Miriam Haskell,
who's Red Crystal bib is arguably the stand out piece
here. Not only would the cascade of red beads create a
dramatic statement against a simple dress, they would also make a
nice sound as you move. The Aurora Borealis crystals developed by
Swarovski in the 1950's give this necklace a certain zeitgeist.
When Mr Swarovski invented these opal like stones in his Tyrol HQ,
he realised their potential as much more than just another bead and
so took them to Mr Christian Dior himself who immediately adopted
them and adorned both his couture and jewels with them and others
followed suit.
I am a sucker for pearls and the
Mosell Coral Syle Gold tone necklace piece makes good use of them.
As with fine jewellery, details make the difference and this set is
so beautifully made that each little golden branch of coral seems
to squirm with life and that gives this jewel the X Factor. It's
free flowing shape captures the feeling of the early days of the
jet set and their love of Mediterranean destinations. This is
vintage 1950s through and through, and even with a couple of
imperceptible missing stones, this is a great example of why
Mosell's pieces are so sought after.
Once one of the luxurious mainstays
of Broadway and Hollywood during the first half of the twentieth
century, Trifari's Crystal Choker is intended to look like fine
jewellery and sticks to the rules. It is no surprise that Trifari's
main designer, Alfred Philippe, also worked for the big jewellery
maisons, so no clowning around here but proper grown up jewellery
that looks like the real deal. So much so that Trifari has gone to
the trouble of choosing different cuts of 'diamonds' to create the
effect of a random organic pattern that reminds me of drops of dew.
This design and production rigour - akin to how fine jewellery is
created - makes this piece a keeper.
Another piece from the 1980s is the
Lawrence 'Larry' Vrba Jade and Pearl necklace and earrings, with so
much va va voom it could drink its very own Martini. A heady mix of
styles that is at once Renaissance, oriental and yet thoroughly
modern, a powerful cocktail that the freedom of costume jewellery
allows. I can see this worn with a turban à la Liz Taylor and it
looks like the kind of jewel that likes to stay out late so this is
one for me. Like Stanley Helger, Vrba had his ties to Miriam
Haskell, making his own jewellery after being Head Designer for
Haskell.
Finally, with all the incredible
pieces on display and prices to match them, it's fair to say that
there are always gems for the more budget-conscious jewellery
consumer, and this unmarked articulated frog pin is certainly one:
it may be a bit of fun, but what exquisite fun it is! While some
animal brooches can be kitsch, this little amphibian pulls off the
right balance between comical and stylish. The mottled effect of
his blue-green skin gives him a realistic touch yet the stylised
shape of his body gives him a more sophisticated air and his little
legs move and make the diamonds sparkle - so cute.
Vintage
Seekers proudly put heritage back into vintage couture, and
with jewellery like this it's a pleasure to see someone doing it so
well.