Tiffany's new RUBEDO Collection makes its mark with a brand new metal
Tiffany & Co stamp its mark in its
175th anniversary with a new metal called RUBEDO that
glows like gold but is malleable like silver. The arrival of RUBEDO
is set to bring some fun to the world of jewels. This new metal -
made from a secret alloy - captures the flattering soft tones of
gold yet is lightweight and polishes up to a smooth lustre. Priced
lower than gold it has the potential to add a whole new dimension
to jewellery design. Now that RUBEDO is here, there is a third way
somewhere between gold and silver.
Having heard the news, I was one of
the first to head down to Tiffany & Co on Bond Street and have
a look for myself. I needed to see RUBEDO in the flesh before
writing anything about it as I was a bit sceptical about this new
arrival.
In the weak winter light of London
the large cuff shone like the setting sun and reminded me of the
colour of very rosy Victorian gold. The cuff was smooth to the
touch and had a depth of sheen that dispelled any thoughts of it
looking like a lesser alloy. And being Tiffany, the piece was well
made and finished to a high standard.
The rings, cuffs and pendants of
the new collection belong to the 1837 RUBEDO collection and are all
stamped with the signature of founder Charles Lewis to mark the
anniversary year.
I think RUBEDO is a bold move from
Tiffany, but then again, these American jewellers are a pioneering
lot who are willing to try out new things. Tiffany was the first
American company to incorporate the 925/1000 British standard of
silver purity. Largely through the efforts of founder Charles Lewis
Tiffany, the U.S. government adopted the standard, and later, the
jeweller's standard for platinum (.950 pure), as well.
In the 1850s Tiffany & Co.
established a silver studio, the first American school of design,
which produced groundbreaking exhibits that won top awards at the
great world's fairs in the late 19th century. And with the arrival
of Italian-born Elsa Peretti, a catwalk model, in 1974 humble
silver was eleveated to new heights as Peretti's clean, honed
organic shapes championed silver as a serious player in the world
of jewellery. The humble bean cast in silver captured the
imagination of women around the world and has become a house
icon.
So where did the name RUBEDO come
from? In the medieval philosophy of alchemy, Rubedo was the title
of the very highest achievement, when matter and spirit fused to
create something of rare beauty. I will be keeping an eye on this
new arrival as I expect great things to come of it.
