Results of Sale: Elizabeth Taylor and Van Cleef & Arpels
Elizabeth Taylor amassed one of the most impressive collections
of jewels and amongst the Queen of Hollywood's treasure trove are
40 Van Cleef &
Arpels jewels. See the pieces before they go under the hammer
at
Christie's in New York in December. Elizabeth Taylor's
jewellery collection is the stuff of legend. With the keen
eye of a collector, she bought and was given
hundreds of jewels, all of which she wore and looked after
throughout her lifetime. Her father was an art dealer and it may
well be from him that she learned the importance of curating, be it
her art collection, couture or jewels. One of her charm bracelets
includes a jewellers' loupe and she was known to exam pieces like a
pro, peering at back of each piece and examining the finest
details. Not only is Elizabeth Taylor's collection
valuable - it includes large diamonds and the historic La Peregrina
pearl- but it is also diverse and eclectic. But perhaps almost as
important, it was also very much in the public eye. She wore her
jewels on the red carpet, in the swimming pool and in her films
making them even more aspirational and loaded with associations.
The most intriguing are those given to her by Richard
Burton, each ring or necklace a chapter in their
tumultuous romance. Unlike the stars of today who borrow
diamond dazzlers for the red carpet , Elizabeth Taylor owned all
her jewels which means we are unlikely to see anything like this
come out of Hollywood again. And I wonder if whoever buys the
33 carat Elizabeth Taylor diamond ring will have
it re-polished to take out the knocks and scratches acquired over a
lifetime of wear. But now onto Van Cleef & Arpels,
one of the most glamorous names in the firmament of high
jewellery. Elizabeth Taylor's collection includes pieces
received from Michael Jackson and Ron
Perelman as well as designs she purchased herself. During
their epic romance, Richard Burton provided Liz with the majority
of her Van Cleef & Arpels jewels. "One day I'm going to find
you the most perfect ruby in the world" was the romantic promise
Richard Burton once made to Elizabeth Taylor. After four years
searching for the stone, he found the Puertas Ruby
- a gem with a royal provenance - at Van Cleef &
Arpels. During the process of acquisition, Mr. Burton secretly
wrote Pierre Arpels letters in French from The Palace Hotel near
the couple's Chalet Ariel in Gstaad, Switzerland. Then, finally,
for Christmas in 1968 he gave her the 8.25 carat Puertas ruby,
diamond and yellow gold ring. In Elizabeth Taylor: My Love Affair
with Jewelry, the actress recalled the moment when she opened the
ring box. "I screamed, which probably echoed over the mountains,
and I couldn't stop screaming," she wrote. "I knew I was staring at
the most exquisite ruby anyone had ever seen." The other Van Cleef
& Arpels pieces are described below, the text direct from Van
Cleef & Arpels, who know better than anyone the intriguing
stories behind these gems. Diamond and Platinum
Pendant-Brooch, 1967 In 1967, Richard Burton presented
Elizabeth Taylor with this gorgeous brooch featuring circular,
marquise and baguette-cut diamonds set in a platinum floral motif.
The convertible design could be worn as a ring and a brooch. The
actress often modeled the Van Cleef & Arpels diamond pendant-
brooch instead of the Taylor-Burton diamond on her pear-shape
diamond necklace to avoid the security detail her insurance company
required every time she wore the 69.42-carat gem. With a $1,500,000
price tag, it was one of the most expensive stones in the world
when Mr. Burton bought it in 1969. At the 1974 premiere of That's
Entertainment, the actress was photographed in the Van Cleef &
Arpels pendant-brooch on her diamond necklace. Ms. Taylor continued
to wear the pendant-brooch on the diamond necklace for many years
after she sold the Taylor-Burton diamond in 1978 to benefit a
hospital in Botswana. Larmes Coral, Diamond and Yellow Gold
Ear Pendants, 1969 Richard Burton made headline news in
1969 when he purchased the Taylor- Burton diamond, but it was not
the only jewelry gift he gave Ms. Taylor that year. Mr. Burton also
bought her an elegant pear-shape coral and diamond ear pendants
from Van Cleef & Arpels. At a 1983 press conference for the
couple's final collaboration, a theater production of the Noel
Coward play Private Lives, years after they had divorced, the
actress joined her ex-husband in front of reporters wearing the
pear-shape coral and diamond ear pendants. Dodecanese
Coral, Amethyst, Diamond and Yellow Gold Choker, Earclips and Ring,
1970; Lamartine Coral, Amethyst, Diamond, Platinum and Yellow Gold
Bracelet, 1970; Ibiza Coral, Amethyst, Diamond and Yellow Gold
Maltese Cross Sautoir, 1970; Tassel Coral, Amethyst, Diamond and
Yellow Gold Sautoir, 1970; Panka Coral, Amethyst, Diamond, Platinum
and Yellow Gold Ear Pendants, 1971 Throughout her life,
Elizabeth Taylor had witty repartee with the press. In 1995, she
told an InStyle editor, "I love purple but I do tend to collect the
more precious stones." Certainly she gave the journalist a good
line for the story, but not quite the truth. Ms. Taylor clearly
admired amethyst and coral jewels. She received seven pieces with
this eye-catching gem combination from Richard Burton in 1971. Ms.
Taylor attended several high-profile events in the jewels over
time. In 1981, she held a press conference at the Kennedy Center in
Washington, D.C. wearing the Dodecanese earclips with Ibiza Maltese
Cross pendant pinned to her jacket as a brooch. At the 1984 opening
of the Rink nightclub in New York, Ms. Taylor paired her amethyst
and coral Panka ear pendants with her Tassel Sautoir and posed for
pictures with Andy Warhol and the modern dance choreographer Martha
Graham. The paparazzi captured the glamorous vision of Ms. Taylor
leaving the Carlyle Hotel in 1980 wearing her Panka ear pendants
with the Lamartine bracelet. In 2011, this set was among her pieces
on view at the Set in Style, Van Cleef & Arpels exhibition at
the Cooper-Hewitt Museum in New York City. Osaka Wood and
Yellow Gold Pendant and Necklace, 1971 Wood and Yellow Gold Chain
Bracelet, 1971 Wood and Yellow Gold Ear Pendants, 1972 Van
Cleef & Arpels started incorporating exotic woods into its fine
jewelry around 1916. The idea was revived in the 1970s. The
innovative designs, inspired by Japanese art and the French and
Spanish Créoles of New Orleans, Louisiana, captured the attention
of Richard Burton who purchased three wood and yellow gold jewels
for Elizabeth Taylor in 1971 and 1972. Sylvie Raulet published a
drawing of a wood and gold chain bracelet in the same style as Ms.
Taylor's in her book Van Cleef & Arpels (Rizzoli, 1986).
Segur Onyx and Yellow Gold Necklace, 1976
Elizabeth Taylor adored long necklaces she could slip on and easily
wear with any outfit. There are several extraordinary long
necklaces from Van Cleef & Arpels in her collection. Of all her
chain necklaces, this yellow gold and onyx design is the longest
measuring 47-inches. Barquerolles Diamond and Yellow Gold
Ear Pendants and necklace, 1970 Coral, Onyx,
Diamond and Yellow Gold Pendant Necklace, 1971-1972 In
1972, Elizabeth Taylor had a two-day long party to celebrate her
fortieth birthday in Budapest, Hungary where Richard Burton was
filming Bluebird. Michael Caine, Princess Grace and Ringo Starr
were a few of the guests who flew in from around the world to
attend the festivities. Among the many gifts Mr. Burton gave his
bride on her big birthday was a coral, onyx, diamond and yellow
gold pendant necklace from Van Cleef & Arpels. The long
necklace with a medallion was one of Ms. Taylor's favored jewelry
silhouettes during the 1970s. Triphanes Amethyst, Kunzite,
Diamond and Yellow Gold Necklace and Ear Pendants, 1973
Elizabeth Taylor's violet eyes were legendary. She frequently chose
purple outfits to enhance the color. She even had her dressing room
painted mauve at least once on the 1963 set of The VIPS presumably
to compliment her eyes. Ms. Taylor's celebrated eyes inspired Mr.
Burton to purchase the Triphanes purple necklace and ear pendants
of amethyst beads, oval-shape Kunzite, diamonds and yellow gold by
Van Cleef & Arpels in 1973 for a ninth anniversary present. The
191⁄4-inch long necklace centers on a detachable pendant with a
luminous 55.70-carat Kunzite. The ear pendants and necklace
appeared on Ms. Taylor consistently. In 1975, she put on the
necklace for a Bob Penn portrait with Richard Burton in Israel. She
modeled the necklace and earrings (without the pendant drops) and a
purple blouse in 1982 for the famous lensman Francesco Scavullo.
When the actress received the 1999 Academy Fellowship Award from
the British Academy of Film and Television, she went to the event
in the Triphanes set. Sevres Diamond and Yellow Gold
Pendant and Sautoir 1971 One of Ms. Taylor's most beloved
Van Cleef & Arpels gifts from Richard Burton was the stylish
1971 Sevres sautoir. The design is composed of circular and
rectangular gold links ending in a large circular motif. Diamonds
accent the textured gold surface of the 29-1⁄2 inch long necklace.
The jewel was convertible and could be taken apart and worn as
several bracelets. Several pictures show Ms. Taylor wearing the
necklace in the 1970s. She put it on July 5, 1973, the occasion
photographers captured her disembarking from a plane in Los Angeles
with her adopted daughter Maria Burton about to face reporters
waiting on the tarmac to ask questions about her announced
separation from Mr. Burton. Over the years, Ms. Taylor continued to
wear the necklace casually and formally. In 2001, when she received
the Presidential Citizens Medal from Bill Clinton for raising over
$200 million to benefit AIDS research, Ms. Taylor accepted the
award at the White House in the Sèvres necklace. Reine
Marguerite White and Yellow Diamond, Chrysoprase and Yellow Gold
Necklace, Brooch and Earclips, 1990 - 1993 Shortly after
Elizabeth Taylor received the news that she was the recipient of
the 1993 Jean Hersholt Humanitarian Academy Award for her crusade
against AIDS, she went to Van Cleef & Arpels to borrow
something major to match her yellow Valentino gown for the evening.
The activist actress was immediately drawn to the Reine Marquerite
suite composed of a necklace, earclips and brooch with pavé-set
white diamond petals, pavé-set yellow diamond pistils and
chrysoprase leaves. After the ceremony, she decided it was going to
be her celebration gift. Ms. Taylor purchased the pieces and wore
them again two months after the Oscars at her fundraiser "Elizabeth
Taylor's Party Against AIDS" in Venice, Italy. Diamond and
Platinum Bow Brooch, 1926 All of the Van Cleef &
Arpels jewels in Elizabeth Taylor's collection were bought in the
period they were made, except this exceptional Art Deco diamond bow
brooch. It was manufactured in the firm's Parisian workshops in
1926 at the height of the Art Deco era. The circular bow design
features pavé-set diamonds with articulated old- European and
baguette-cut diamond fringe mounted in platinum. In My Love Affair
with Jewelry, Ms. Taylor said, when she saw it at the Boutique in
Paris, she felt it "fit right in" with her collection. The
beautiful design was among the pieces Elizabeth Taylor loaned to
the 2011 Set in Style, Van Cleef & Arpels exhibition at the
Cooper-Hewitt Museum in New York City.